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I'm A Total Idiot. Did I Kill My Engine?

MANWHOR3

By MANWHOR3,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
Posted

Ok, to cut a long story short, i'm normally very careful. But for some reason, tonight, I wasn't thinking straight.

I did an oil change, and I forgot to put the oil cap back on. I went for a drive, and the care kept almost stalling on idle. I drove about 10 minutes, then pulled over. realised the cap wasn't on, put it on, then drove home.

I didn't drive hard. never over 3k rpm. Not much boost, maybe 2 psi or something. The whole time, the oil pressure guage was still between 2-4.

Now, I lost maybe about 300ml of oil or so, but that's not my main concern. Basically, it was still above the low on the dipstick.

What I am concerned about, is whether having the cap open meant that there was no oil pressure and that I might have kileld the engine. Is it likely to be ok?

Also, why does it want to stall if the cap is open?

cheers guys.... hope the news is good.

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted

No problem, oil pressure is made by oil pump. Just a bit of mess from a little oil.

It stalls due to the way the crank case ventilation works with the intake, vacuum system, so more air getting into vacuum system (eg oil cap off) without fuel to compensate will cause engine to stall?, as well as idle control going WTF is all this extra air after throttle body.

barnoon Experienced

barnoon

Posted
Posted

Yeah it should be fine just put some more oil in her and give the engine a degrease to get rid of all that oil, done this once before in my old S13 all it did was make a real bad mess, put more oil in put the cap back on went down to the carwash and hosed all the oil off and all was fine :whistling:

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Was in a rush.. asked for a top right positive battery.

Got home, threw it in the car, threw on the positive, as the negative clamp touched the terminal it sparked and instantly popped the 75amp main fuse ($33 suckers), 10amp incar fuse and chances are my powerfc as now there's no relay click and no display on the pfc h/c

The bastard is it was a cheap battery to get me by while I send the old battery off for warranty, the cheap battery has very difficult to see + and - signs, unlike the old battery that has a clear RED marking under the positive side.

Well enough excuses I 100% completely stuffed up badly and should have checked.

The PFC appears to look and smell fine inside but pin 57 does appear to have a cut in a trace that runs from it, IF this done by AP Engineering or not I don't know, by eye it looks like a precision cut, by camera in macro mode I think it looks like its blown but not burnt, if thats possible.

Hows that for a I'M A TOTAL IDIOT story. :whistling:

As a result I'm now researching in to this.....

post-382-1151758892.gif

An RB25 PFC will be going in if this R32 item is buggered.

  • 3 weeks later...
MANWHOR3 Proficient

MANWHOR3

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I don't understand what you did wrong cubes?

Was it just that sparking when you connected the negative terminal onto the negative?

whenever I disconnect the battery and reconnect it on any car it always seems to spark.

Or am I missing something and did you actually connect it the wrong way?

Is there anyway to avoid the sparking?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

In short.

New battery, asked for top right positive, didn't double check, was in a rush, connected negative lead to positive, grabbed positive lead went to connect to negative battery, it touched sparked, 75amp fuse made a loud pop, 10amp fuse under dash popped multiple resistors and a couple of capacitors crapped them selves within the ecu.

It was a cheap battery (mines in for warranty) so there were no colour markings and the slight + - markings are so damn hard to see its not funny, especially at dusk which is when I dropped the battery in.

So yes something so simple yet so so stupid. lmao.. I was lucky. :banana:

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