Jump to content
SAU Community

new member maybe a new car?

Guest 2flyby

By Guest 2flyby,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest 2flyby

Guest 2flyby

Posted
Posted

hey im new to this so i was just wondering if u guys could help me out a little,

i was thinking of getting a skyline and wanted all your opinions, i have about 15-20 K to spend on a car and was thinking about a skyline, my thoughts were probably a r33 gts-t 1995 model, but i dont know a great deal about the car.

I was just wanting your opinions on what u should think i should get, i.e whats the best deal for the money etc. and what the differences are, im not really sure what the differences are in models i.e r32 to the r33 except the r33 is newer... is there a year difference like pre 95 isnt so good ? i dunno anyway any comments are good comments as i want to learn more,

also how can i tell if its a good one? is their much that goes wrong? i have never had a turbo so is it more likely it is worn?, and should i get one from a dealer or just a private sale?

thanx in advance :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12460-new-member-maybe-a-new-car/
Share on other sites
Blitz Grand Master

Blitz

Posted
Posted

Kirk,

I see your car at chatswood regularly. Do you still cruise with your mate in the other beema?

Sorry to hear about the right off. If you want a great 1995 R33 with plenty of extras at a good price send a pm to Merli - he has one for sale.

Nick

BY BY

Bigvis. Collaborator

Bigvis.

Posted
Posted

Hey fella,

i guess your budget wight be the deciding factor. As far as I know (i bought my line in december) 15-20 witth get you a r32. I searched high and low to get a good deal for a 33 and still paid 22, although this was from a dealer with 3 yr warranty. You might find a 33 around 20, but probably from a private sale, and itsup to you to weigh up the risk if any. Anyways, for your moolla I rekon a really nice 32gtst may just be the ticket.

Guest 2flyby

Guest 2flyby

Posted
Posted

do u think the warrenty is worth while and how much extra is a 3 year warrenty?

this is one of the things i was weighing up is it worth while getting a r33 for 19-20 private or going over the budget just to get it from a dealer and the extra warrenty...

u know i really like the r33 having read up a bit in the last few days and talking to various different people, it seems the go, but im not deciding anything and i like all your comments :) cheers

red900ss Grand Master

red900ss

Posted
Posted

From my limited experience with R32s I feel the R33 is a more refined car. The 2.5 has plenty of low down torque if you just want to cruise around and be lazy with the gears. As it is a bigger, heavier car the ride is a bit more plush. I've heard the trade off is that the handling isn't as sharp. It's still a very good handling car, just not as light in feel as the 32.

Going by ads in the Herald etc. there are lots of private sales for less than $20k. Condition of these cars may vary though. It seems most of the cars have been "clocked" so go on condition of the seats, pedals, trim etc if it has lowish kms.

Personally, I think the 3 Year Commercial Warranty offered by most dealers is a rip off. It has too many ways for them to get out of doing the work and not enough inclusions. It is basically an insurance policy for a limited number of mechanical problems. You also have to send in receipts everytime you get work done to keep it active. If they don't like something they can knock it back etc. The Statuatory 3 month Warranty the Dealer must provide has more teeth but it's not perfect either.

You are better off getting a qualified inspector to do a thorough Pre Purchase Inspection on the car.

I bought a totally stock, unmodified '93 model 2.5 years ago and after a couple of minor fixes (timing, water pump gasket and a speedo problem) it never skips a beat. Whatever you get keep it serviced and run it on 98 octane.

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...