Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all.

I have some Carbon fibre i need to get rid of. Its preimpregnated

Its in rolls of 12inches (1 foot) by 333feet (100m). Fairly long rolls.

This is top quality.

I can reveal more material properties on request however, a comprehensive data sheet will be available upon purchase.

It can be used for anything from aesthetics to structural purposes.

Asking $500 neg per roll

Make that $400!!!!

call 0413 934 330

Located in Melbourne.

post-2293-1152007001.jpg

post-2293-1152007009.jpg

Carbon_Data.doc

Edited by Chef_32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124763-carbon-firbre-rolls-price-drop/
Share on other sites

pics added. i'm not too sure about how to lay it up. up til now we have been using wider rolls, and over lapping them. However, we do intend to build a formula style chassis from it.

thickness i can't say but its 190 grams per square metre. usually you overlap a few layers.

email sent to topstage....

I'll have to consult the people laying up the chassis, as i'm not involved in that aspect of development.

i do believe however, that we will generate a mould, add the carbon, vacuum seal it. pressurise it, and bake it.

At room temp, the prepreg is sticky, since it already has resin in it.

might be a good idea to go through forums such as these

http://www.racingcomposites.net

http://www.compositeforum.werksberg.com/

How long will this be availible for? A guy at works knows all about carbon fibering, but would also like an information sheet about it to see if it would suit my/his aplications.

thanks

so am i right in saying this describes it:

Unidirectional Fabrics

A unidirectional (UD) fabric is one in which the majority of fibres run in one direction only. A small amount of fibre or other material may run in other directions with the main intention being to hold the primary fibres in position, although the other fibres may also offer some structural properties. Some weavers of 0/90° fabrics term a fabric with only 75% of its weight in one direction as a unidirectional, whilst for others the unidirectional designation only applies to those fabrics with more than 90% of the fibre weight in one direction. Unidirectionals usually have their primary fibres in the 0° direction (along the roll ­ a warp UD) but can also have them at 90° to the roll length (a weft UD).

True unidirectional fabrics offer the ability to place fibre in the component exactly where it is required, and in the optimum quantity (no more or less than required). As well as this, UD fibres are straight and uncrimped. This results in the highest possible fibre properties from a fabric in composite component construction. For mechanical properties, unidirectional fabrics can only be improved on by prepreg unidirectional tape, where there is no secondary material at all holding the unidirectional fibres in place. In these prepreg products only the resin system holds the fibres in place.

where as most comonly used for small panels, airboxes, dash panels etc is:

Woven Fabrics

For applications where more than one fibre orientation is required, a fabric combining 0° and 90° fibre orientations is useful.

Woven fabrics are produced by the interlacing of warp (0°) fibres and weft (90°) fibres in a regular pattern or weave style. The fabric's integrity is maintained by the mechanical interlocking of the fibres. Drape (the ability of a fabric to conform to a complex surface), surface smoothness and stability of a fabric are controlled primarily by the weave style. The following is a description of some of the more commonly found weave styles:

Plain

Each warp fibre passes alternately under and over each weft fibre. The fabric is symmetrical, with good stability and reasonable porosity. However, it is the most difficult of the weaves to drape, and the high level of fibre crimp imparts relatively low mechanical properties compared with the other weave styles. With large fibres (high tex) this weave style gives excessive crimp and therefore it tends not to be used for very heavy fabrics.

Twill

One or more warp fibres alternately weave over and under two or more weft fibres in a regular repeated manner. This produces the visual effect of a straight or broken diagonal 'rib' to the fabric. Superior wet out and drape is seen in the twill weave over the plain weave with only a small reduction in stability. With reduced crimp, the fabric also has a smoother surface and slightly higher mechanical properties.

Satin

Satin weaves are fundamentally twill weaves modified to produce fewer intersections of warp and weft. The ‘harness’ number used in the designation (typically 4, 5 and 8) is the total number of fibres crossed and passed under, before the fibre repeats the pattern. A ‘crowsfoot’ weave is a form of satin weave with a different stagger in the re-peat pattern. Satin weaves are very flat, have good wet out and a high degree of drape. The low crimp gives good mechanical properties. Satin weaves allow fibres to be woven in the closest proximity and can produce fabrics with a close ‘tight’ weave. However, the style’s low stability and asymmetry needs to be considered. The asymmetry causes one face of the fabric to have fibre running predominantly in the warp direction while the other face has fibres running predominantly in the weft direction. Care must be taken in assembling multiple layers of these fabrics to ensure that stresses are not built into the component through this asymmetric effect.

Basket

Basket weave is fundamentally the same as plain weave except that two or more warp fibres alternately interlace with two or more weft fibres. An arrangement of two warps crossing two wefts is designated 2x2 basket, but the arrangement of fibre need not be symmetrical. Therefore it is possible to have 8x2, 5x4, etc. Basket weave is flatter, and, through less crimp, stronger than a plain weave, but less stable. It must be used on heavy weight fabrics made with thick (high tex) fibres to avoid excessive crimping.

Leno

Leno weave improves the stability in ‘open’ fabrics which have a low fibre count. A form of plain weave in which adjacent warp fibres are twisted around consecutive weft fibres to form a spiral pair, effectively ‘locking’ each weft in place. Fabrics in leno weave are normally used in con-junction with other weave styles because if used alone their openness could not produce an effective composite component.

Mock Leno

A version of plain weave in which occasional warp fibres, at regular intervals but usually several fibres apart, deviate from the alternate under-over interlacing and instead interlace every two or more fibres. This happens with similar frequency in the weft direction, and the overall effect is a fabric with increased thickness, rougher surface, and additional porosity.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...