Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Fella's,

Well in short the problem is located near the fan belt, but definetely isnt. At first thought it was as when cold thought it may have been, and sometimes when load applied it also does it (high pitch squeeling). However, had head under the bonnet and realised it wasnt the fan belt. It's a high pitch squeel much like that a loose/worn fanbelt, but is coming from around the injectors/alternator area.

Anyone with any help or possible idea to what it could be please shout out. Im hoping to get it into a workshop within a week, and seeming i dont get home to after dark i can't see too much.

Cheers

Dan

Edited by DC_GTST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/
Share on other sites

Not sure, but is there a possibility that it's your timing belt? If an old idler or tensioner bearing seizes up, the belt would slip and scream across them?

It's a wild guess, and not exactly where you're hearing the problem, but might be worth having a look through the inspection plate?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/#findComment-2311021
Share on other sites

sounds quite similar to mine.. I have removed my timing belt and it's definitely not the belt loose as that would be a big worry. I sprayed some wd40 around the area and it quietened up totally (but came back a day later).

It's either the water pump bearings or the timing belt bearing getting old and squeaky (it obviously wasn't replaced with my timing belt :P). I dont't think its fatal, but I'm definitely going to be looking at replacing my idler bearing and tensioner sometime in the next 6 months. I'm guessing that its not really possible for the bearings to totally cease overnight, but it could be an expensive mistake if I'm wrong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/#findComment-2311038
Share on other sites

Yes it would be expensive as the rb's are intereference motors. :thanks:

While your replacing the tensioners/idlers grab new studs for them from nissan for $2. Well worth while as the studs have been known to let go.

Also.. the idlers are stupidly priced, use 2 tensioners. The tensioners are locking so there's no problems there.

All the RB tensioners are the same (rb30,20,25,26) holden are slightly cheaper BUT they only run one bearing inside the shell compared to nissan that run 2 side by side in the shell. Thats holden for you. :P

or head down to CBC and have them match a bearing up, from memory the bearings are $30.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/#findComment-2311430
Share on other sites

Bearings Industries was the other go... There is a big thread on it, and has their contact details. Both bearings cost me under $100 in total.

And fair enough, pred... it may not have seized, it could just be a whinger! In any case, DC... get it checked when your car gets booked in. =-]

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/#findComment-2311520
Share on other sites

Not sure, but is there a possibility that it's your timing belt? If an old idler or tensioner bearing seizes up, the belt would slip and scream across them?

It's a wild guess, and not exactly where you're hearing the problem, but might be worth having a look through the inspection plate?

In that case then,check to see if the teeth have worn down.very risky driving if that is the case...I think that it is just a slipping belt give all the fan belts a tighten up..';

When i got the car back on the road.I never had any air con for the 1st month and when i got it i9n the first 30 mins of driving with it on it started a super high pitch sqweel.It freaked me out and the peeps next to me....

All i did to remedy it was line the inner side air of the con pump fan belt with dry soap and re-tightened the belts.Now no sqweel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125122-mystery-sound/#findComment-2312327
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...