Jump to content
SAU Community

S1 33GTR or S2 33GTR Vspec

Gumby
 Share

Recommended Posts

Gumby Enthusiast

Gumby

Posted
Posted

Fellas,

I'm torn by an offer posed to me recently.

I have a SII R33 GTR (Non V) with APEX coil overs, cusco oil catch, Apexi Pods and BOVs, Cat back exhaust, HD Clutch and braided brake lines. It's been damaged and repaired very well though camber settings are out as it must have been hit and there seem to be some wiring issues as I've been losing fuses. 66,000kms.

I've been offered a swap with a SI R33 GTR Vspec, totally stock, never damaged, even the boost restrictor in place. 33,000kms.

I may have to pay on road costs with a changeover.

I feel the stock car being in better condition and being a V would hold more value come resale time but not sure.

What would you guys be more inclined to buy, a SI stockie or a modded SII.

Opinions would be appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12519-s1-33gtr-or-s2-33gtr-vspec/
Share on other sites
nissaner Mentor

nissaner

Posted
Posted

i think u have the post title the other way around... shouldn't it be :

S1 R33 GTR Vspec vs S2 R33 GTR

anyways,

do U have to pay more cash? or did THEY say they will pay more cash?

i would rather have a modded series 2... than a stock s1 vspec...

:)

Gumby Enthusiast

Gumby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well I was planning to leave it stock as I have no plans to race it and I have to use it every day and often around the city and their high rise parking lots. I just wanted a nice quick road car but don't need to be the fastest thing on the road.

My current car bangs and crashes over bumps then hisses and backfires all down the road which is becoming tiring though sounds lovely. Hmmm...........showing my age now.

nissaner Mentor

nissaner

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by Gumby

My current car bangs and crashes over bumps then hisses and backfires all down the road which is becoming tiring though sounds lovely.  Hmmm...........showing my age now.

hehe thats why i worked my assssss off at the age of 19 (while i lived with family so no living expense) and bought my gtr when i was 20... now i am 21 and have owned my gtr for almost a year (11.5 months) and still love the "banging and crashing over bumps then hissing and backfiring all down the road"... :)

seriously, i think its a very good deal if u r okay with a stock gtr... coz by no means a stock gtr is slow...

nissaner Mentor

nissaner

Posted
Posted

i don't think its ultra-hard to maintain it (probably becoz i gave up ppl keying my car here and there :) but yeah, mechanically its all good...)

of course it is a little more expensive to maintain my gtr compared to my camry, but at the same time i get a little more attention in my gtr... :D

it is very very reliable, i cannot understand ppl thinking gtr would be just pain in the arse to drive in the traffic or whatever when they actually haven't even driven a gtr...

hope u make a wise decision ... either way its a GTR and what more can u want? hehe

Gumby Enthusiast

Gumby

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah agreed, mine has a HD clutch and I sit in peak hour traffic on the odd occassion and it's still wonderfull to be behind the wheel, even when I'm going nowhere. They're not hard to drive at all. Reliability isn't an issue as I've spent nothing on it but oil and pads for the last year and a half.

I think I'll offer a straight swap and if they go for it I'll do it, and if not, then I still have a hard GTR. Can't really go too wrong eh.?

I was just thinking of resale value as I won't have it for ever, that's why I was keen on some idea of what people would prefer to buy come time to buy a GTR. I thought they'd rather buy a stockie and mod it themselves as the mods are known to be good and it indicates the prev. owner wasn't necessarily a road racer.

400HP Experienced

400HP

Posted
Posted

Unless you're car is totally F**KED jsut keep it. How bad was the accident?

Cos also the mods on your car a relatively mild so its not a heavily modified car which would suit your purposes anyway.

My current car bangs and crashes over bumps then hisses and backfires all down the road which is becoming tiring though sounds lovely. Hmmm...........showing my age now.

Don't all skylines do this anyway hehehe

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted

Series 1 R33 GTR... So it would be a 1995 model car.

2003 - 1995 = 8

8 year old car, and you honestly think it's got 33,000 kms on the clock? I assume you know how easy it is to wind back the odometer, or replace it with another dash cluster. I wouldn't trust any kms showing from any import dealer... Odometer rewinding is RAMPANT, and near impossible to detect if done by someone experienced.

If you go ahead with the swap, may I suggest a timing belt swap ASAP?

400HP Experienced

400HP

Posted
Posted
Thought most would prefer a stock SI Vspec over a modded SII Non Vspec.

If the condition of your car is in fact not very good then yes I would change. But in regards to Vpsec vs non Vspec I personally don't think theres a HUGE difference.... others will probably tell you differently...

The only major thing is the ATESSA ETS Pro I think instead of the standard atessa but unless you race often i doubt you'll feel the difference on the street. But if you want the Vpsec to have a "Vspec" cos its more rare then go for it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • hoodedreeper
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By hoodedreeper · Posted

      It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • MBS206
      Cas issue

      By MBS206 · Posted

      It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...