Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am in a bit of a delema! mainly it's location,

I am about to purchase a PFC brand new but a Motec m8 Ecu has turned with all its codes opened> wideband, Boost control etc .

What else would i need to get this installed sensor / Loom wise and runing on my Gtr r32 twincam, To4z?

Edited by ishh

I bought an M48 brand new and needed a 3 bar map sensor kit, but never ended up fitting it, as it was another $1,500 to install and tune, so I sold it on and bought a power fc. The MOTEC is great just costly to get up and running.

I will put this a bit different ....

The weekend has made Ringing around hard

to get advice :D So tomorrow a big phone assault...

If i have just the Motec m8 Ecu with certain codes added Wide band lambda, Antilag Control Etc !

What extra's as in loom and sensors will be required for the mechanic for the install.

i have just been reading horror stories where the motec tuner couldn’t get the awd going because he didn’t understand certain things so this freaks me out even more?

I am getting fairly frustrated with the local advice i am getting so now

the car will be taken to melb (300km) and am trying to get some background before i go ringing around and asking novice questions to pros

please if anyone can list me the parts and steps i will have to go through it would be a real head start so i can organize the workshop.

I have been looking through the Workshops in the maintenance section on the site .. If any stick out for this type of work Could someone please recommend thanks ish!

the powerfc will come out cheaper and give you 80% of the features you need at around 1/3 of the total cost. is there a reason you want to go motec? for a true rally/race car, sure motec is tops. for a normal street car i dont see as justifiable, given the cost.

paulr33 i undertand the features on each unit .. this is an ongoing intrest for me where the car just may end up on the track... I dont like back tracking and multiple modual's in the cabin really!

I am building a spare rb26 in the shed with forged pistons and collar upgrade ready to go in when this one fails....

everyone keeps telling me what i want upgrade wise when all i want to know i what will I need extra for my motec M8 ECU.

No offense guys , the comments are welcome but no one is answering the question! ;)

fair enough. so why do u want to goto motec? i would like to also, but like many others can't justify the 3k price tag to get a unit, and then it needs to be tuned and setup. its not an out of the box plug and play start the car and drive off unit like the powerfc is

I want the motec for probably exacly the same reason you do paulr33 its the best !. If you read up earlier, the motec Ecu has come up second hand all enabled hence this Thread to weigh up and gain info.

The pfc is more of an option because of the area i live in and the local mechanics knowledge and would save me dragging the project to melbourne .

Edited by ishh

M8 is getting old now.. unless your getting is real cheap power fc is so much easier and will tune better with the 6 throttle body's unless your only after wide open throttle driving... Id be finding out what the m8 doesnt hav compared to the newer m400 m600 m800 series and is it as easy to tune as the new models...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.
    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
×
×
  • Create New...