Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i first met john years ago - mad inventor and almost impossible to pin down but what he does is first class. he made a trick cooling set up for my 440 cu in BB Chrysler but not with water jacket take-offs like i understand from Alex, the guy he works with, that they are doing now for the rb. i spoke to Alex recently and he mentioned they were going to do this soon.

some discussion of the issue in general is here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...8&hl=bennet

does what john /alex are doing seem similar to the jun set up discussed here?:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...122687&st=0

i haven't seen their system, did you take pics etc? back to back testing would be great and it's the type of thing john would insist on, did you ask them for results?

on a seriouse note

the idea of removing the funny little coolant header/bleed log on a rb. mainly on a rb26

and replacing with direct waterlines is a VERY good idea. as this evans up the temp differance between the front and rear of the head

hmmm ok im building an rb25 atm and am going down this path ive also met mr bennet and alex through my uncle chris from beyond the limit motorsports[ very switched on people ]

and thanks for the links scooby intresting reading for i didnt entirely understand the whole theory behind this but obviously has to make a huge diff in reliability and general eficiency of the cooling system/motor package and also there oil system theorys sound just as good and would be worth while looking into aswell

hmmm ok im building an rb25 atm and am going down this path ive also met mr bennet and alex through my uncle chris from beyond the limit motorsports[ very switched on people ]

and thanks for the links scooby intresting reading for i didnt entirely understand the whole theory behind this but obviously has to make a huge diff in reliability and general eficiency of the cooling system/motor package and also there oil system theorys sound just as good and would be worth while looking into aswell

don't get carried away with spending money on this mod too quickly, a large school of thought suggests that this is not worthwhile for RBs until the power gets really serious. they are not the boiling prone monsters that a lot of old V8s were (don't know enough about the new ones to comment). there is little doubt a similar system on an old V8 would seriously improve it dramatically, as i found, but make JB prove to you that either power, efficiency or driveability are improved before you spend money on this for an RB. did they talk $ at all?

cheers

Sprint car builders have been doing this for ages, I think Smokey Yunick started doing it back in the 60's + 70's. But as to why it's a "new" thing has got me buggered.

Haha and good call on the commando line, the line "Let off some steam Bennet" really is applicable to this... as that's the main purpose of the bleeders.

yes the japanese companies even have car specific kits for it. ARC make a very nice GTR kit and it's well under $400 and of course comes with all the bits to make it a bolt on process.

Richard, the ARC kits look different to whats in the pics from exvitermini ... they seem to be really just a swirl pot and external header tank setup.. rather than pulling water from 3 places along the block ..

still trying to et my head around this and look at ways it can be done with the rb25 head...

main issue i have as to a reason to use a thing like this is due to the front facing plenum im using not retaining the radiator bleeder from the TB water feed, so i cant bleed the system 100% currently

my other option is to try and include something like the justjap item like below

d1specheadtank.jpg

but that wont even out the water temps from front to rear of the block...

by the looks of the ARC kit, neither do they : - well the ones on nengun dont anyway

This doesnt seem to be a complex modification as the only parts needed from what I can see are:

Extra Outlet on radiator

Braided Lines and Fittings

Reservoir mounted on strut

it's not complex but the problem is the cost can add right up once you take fitting into account.

Sprint car builders have been doing this for ages, I think Smokey Yunick started doing it back in the 60's + 70's. But as to why it's a "new" thing has got me buggered.

it's not really new but no one out here does it that much - the culture has generally been 'use a bigger radiator, take out the thermostat etc' because people can't see the boiling in the block and it's also hard to measure. they can see the radiator puking colant but steam pockets are hidden - that's why the good guys like Smokey are good, they know stuff. Chevy is just now releasing heads with coolant passages that have ports half way along.

Richard, the ARC kits look different to whats in the pics from exvitermini ... they seem to be really just a swirl pot and external header tank setup.. rather than pulling water from 3 places along the block ..

still trying to et my head around this and look at ways it can be done with the rb25 head...

my other option is to try and include something like the justjap item like below

d1specheadtank.jpg

but that wont even out the water temps from front to rear of the block...

by the looks of the ARC kit, neither do they : - well the ones on nengun dont anyway

exactly. there's kits and there's kits. the one on exvitermini, jun, etc are the whole enchilada. just getting a reservoir is not going to make much difference imho unless you needed to create a higher fill point for some reason. the water will cool as it comes to the front of the block anyway and the steam will condense if it travels. problem is large steam pockets occur at given points due to localised heat, hence the take offs you see with the jun type kits. the other issue of course is a good water pump. i reckon a good pump will solve most problems given that RBs have a high bleeder.

Edited by Scooby

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You know how your car rolled through a fence in your last jacking escapade? Scissor jacks increase the likely hood of that sort of thing happening immensely!
    • http://calfinn.com.au/product/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c/1500kg-standard-trolley-jack-cj-2t-c   I have this and fits under a S3 33 GTR with no issues. Purchased in 2009 and not one issue. It was $950 back then. Not cheap but something so important isn’t worth cheaping out on.
    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
×
×
  • Create New...