Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would have a look around for an E36 325/328 if I were you. They really aren't that expensive, even E36 M3's are coming down to around the $30k mark, which means that the 325 will be getting around the $20k mark. I remember seeing a 325i Motorsport not long ago which was modified (paint, wheels etc) for $22k.

Valid point Ben !! Me thinks a bit more homework is required..........

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

zomg scott! Remember me ? rofl mm steak :D

Come to back da skylines you must. rofl :D

Good luck finding a BMW, and yes 20" chr0mes FTW :ermm:

As for your 32, a friend is looking to buy one at the end of the year ish. so yea.. :

Kinda hard to forget !! It was like watching a mouse devour a horse :D

Cheers for the heads up on your mate. That should work out well since I need a bit more time now to do some more research and finish a few things off on the Line.

Gave this a thought too but the LS400's are getting pretty old now. Getting too close to needing major work. On the Toyota subject though, maybe a non-turbo Supra is worth consideration............. :nyaanyaa:

ls400's are still made to this day... (well they are ls430's now) a late 90's model will set you back 20ish, u just need to look around cos there are some really nice ones getting around. as for engine work what are you talking about?????? they have a 1uzfe! a farking legendary engine, the strongest production engine in the world, goes 600,000+ km before needing a rebuild, the bottom end is good for over 1000hp and the top end is good for like 800hp. at the end of the day you dont really need to worry at all about the engine because it isnt going to break on you. as for build quality... i will anger you nissan enthusiests but toyotas build quality is much better, which is true....

ls400 is the way to go!

Well.. goto say I was looking at the 320ci bmw today.. but the newer models.. 2002-2003 - still a bit too expensive..

Nice car how I think they are a bit too pricey..

Have you checked out an audi A4 quattro with 1.8ltr Turbo - around $30k..

Lexus.. wouldn't be after one.. It's hard finding something to drive after having had a skyline.. its a move from power -> luxury

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I've narrowed it down to the following ( reluctantly ). :

In this order...

1. 02 Scubydoo Impressa RX 2.5L sedan

2. 99 Luxo IS200

3. still considering 98 318is

So, what would YOU buy and why ???

I'm feeling pretty lost at this point. I've owned a Nissan Skyline ( MR30, HR31 & HCR32 ) for like 12 years now so it's a big leap for me.

you can easily afford a Stagea.

.............look into one maybe???????

I SOOO looked into this option but I want to get away from turbo charged cars and I know I would not be able to resist modding it. :

The Impreza is painfully slow and it won't be as well put together as the IS.

It's 0-100 is close to 10 seconds and that's slower than the IS200 for sure.

The IS would also be much nicer inside and it also looks nicer than the bugeye 02 Impreza.

Unless you have a huge wanting to go AWD I wouldn't choose the Impreza.

The Impreza is painfully slow and it won't be as well put together as the IS.

It's 0-100 is close to 10 seconds and that's slower than the IS200 for sure.

The IS would also be much nicer inside and it also looks nicer than the bugeye 02 Impreza.

Unless you have a huge wanting to go AWD I wouldn't choose the Impreza.

Really ??? I haven't had a chance to test drive one yet but I thought being a boxer style 2.5L and not a real big car it would step pretty lively. Kinda what I wanted to hear though. I'm sorta not an all wheel drive kinda person.

I know this won't be too well received but I've decided that after 11 years of driving Import Skylines it's time to move on.

The car I'm looking at getting is a 98 BMW 318is ( up to 2000 model ). Is there anyone on here who knows anything specific about this model that is good / bad etc. ?? Any meaningfull advice would be great.

Please hold off on the sledging and Skyline vs. BMW etc. Remember, I've been driving an Import Line for 11 years so I know how good they are. :) And it's going to break my heart to hand over my keys to someone else :(

I have one of these at the moment. 99 model

f**kin slow man. REALLY slow... u cant over take anything. Nice to drive as in comfort and ride... but the engine is a joke.

I cant wait to get back to a gtr again

BMW1.JPG

Dan, are you comparing it to your GT-R or something more mainstream like a 3.5L Magna etc ??

Like I said, for something close to 20K, midsize, that's a 99 model or younger, and is rear wheel drive, I'm not expecting to find much with power. So yeah..... :

So far I've heard nothing really bad about the IS200 ( on this forum and in general ) so that's looking favourable :(

sorry

comparing to a magna... the magna would have more power. not being able to over take is a real pain.

As far as the car goes. the brakes feel as good as the gtr. in having the car for over 2 years i havent had to change the pads once.

servicing isnt to bad... bmw give u a nice new model to drive while they have yours.

and if you can... get an auto. the manual is a bitch

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...