Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All,

Purchased and installed a profec b 2 on the weekend, works great.

Just wondering if anyone has had an issue with it reading/displaying the PSI?

Only left it and 0 duty and it displays .40 and creeps to .60 when i get to the high rpm's but it feels like more than that!

Anyone else had this?

I have the solenoid connected to the actuator and IC piping after the cooler!

cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125496-correct-boost-reading-profec-b-2/
Share on other sites

i have hks ebcIV and my boost gauge is way different to digital display

.8 bar on hks is like 15-16 psi on gauge

this makes no sense at all

either the guage is wrong or the controller is

0.80 bar is somewhere near 11psi and 15psi is no where near 11psi

i also have the Profec B spec II, the PSI reading is shown with no decimal point, so at idle it should show -90

Hitman explained it to me, Bloody Japs confuse us all

yep sorted

Still needs a good tune but damn she pulls hard on 10 psi, woohoo

do you have your boost gauge hooked up to where the boost contoller is? if it is in different spot then that can sometimes cause a different reading.

the ideal place for a boost gauge is between the turbo and the intercooler, because then you know exactly what the turbo is doing. if you have it after the cooler then you don't know exactly what boost the turbo is running, as you don't know how much air the cooler is restricting, you have to take into account the different density of cooler air, etc. some of the hks turbos come out with the wastegate hose coming straight off the compressor housing.

from stock they come with it on the 'cold' pipe (cooler to throttle body). when i did my front mount install i had it off the bov hose and i found boost was all over the place (manual boost contoller). then i took the old nipple off the stock cold pipe and attached it to the hot pipe. this made boost much more stable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...