Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi again,

the turbos are hks gtr-s but i was told they were rated at 450hp, and other sites I have researched agree with that.

When in doubt, refer directly to the HKS goodsmaster catalouge - They are not rated at 450ps so a workshop should not be making those power claims.

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I would definitely reconsider your plans and any associated costs/quotes/budgets as what you require won't be cheap. I would also recommend a more suitable workshop for such extensive mods, unless you have plenty of time to wait and money to burn.

Either way a 450rwkw GTR wont be cheap to run and maintain-mine only had 370rwkw and had a large appetite for gearbox's. I fixed the problem with a full OS Gikon set. In hindsite should have spent all that money on something else >_<

Im at a time in my life where I can burn a little cash off having fun but if you can tell me more about the box you bought - where from, how much, it would be appreciated

I may have one for sale...pm me if interested

again....what oil pump and sump are you planning to run with this combo??

Edited by DiRTgarage
  • 2 weeks later...

definately be used on the street. will see the track regularly too. the car is almost ready. will be going for its dyno run on wednesday. had it on dyno last friday and it hit 380 kw no prob. graph was climbing steep but noticed small amount of oil coming from one of the turbos so stopped the run. Both turbos now back @ shop getting new seals. warranty job. turbos back on car tomorrow. will post graph hopefully wednesday night.

Edited by fritter
  • 3 weeks later...

Just got the GTR back on Friday morning and after a few days on the gold coast have now driven it up from brisbane to townsville. ITS AWESOME. HILLS MOTORSPORTS have done an awesome and thorough job. Im very impressed. 447 kw at the wheels. 1012nM of torque. I ended up having to get a new gearbox and opted for the P.A.R. straight cut box. Feels smooth to change but does have the usual whine in 1st 2nd and 3rd. full kit cost me $5300. I will running it this week end so i will keep you all informed of my 1/4 mile times. Must repaet again what a great job mark from hills did. I know there are some people in here who think otherwise, but he has impressed me.

Edited by fritter

Ended up sticking with the gt-rs turbos. they come on hard at around 4300rpm and go hard to my 8600 rev limit. I will post pics of my times on monday. Im aiming for mid 10's until i get used to launching it and hopefully my times will drop a bit more soon. I have done a couple of practice runs on an old dead end road out the back of townsville and using my rev/speed monitor i got down to 10.72

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...