Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys, i recently had my car on the dyno and the tuner said my oxygen sensor isn't working, he tested it by having the car in neutral on the dyno and just holding the car at constant revs and he said it wasn't working properly.

So at the momet its currently running open loop on the power fc cause the 02 sensor is switched off , which with these currnet fuel prices is lets just say putting a nasty dent in my wallet!

Now the 02 sensor is second hand but was definitely working when the last person had it, the exact same thing was happening with my old 02 sensor which was only a year old which i got brand new which is perhaps leading me to think it could be something else?????????

On my power fc once the car is warm and is idling it reads 0.74 volts or there abouts whether or not i have the power fc set to closed loop or not.

Any ideas would be very helpful!

Should i be running the car with the 02 sensor on or off in this situation?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125673-is-my-02-sensor-stuffeed/
Share on other sites

If its sitting at 0.74V on idle, with the O2 feedback on, that means that the base tune is still probably too rich.

An easy way to see if its working is to pull out some fuel in the IGN/INJ menu by about 1% each time, and check the O2 voltage. It should start to cycle when you've leaned it out enough.

Ash,

Bring it around some time and I will have another look.

I remember the 2 cells under the idle cells were set too rich that would cause it not to drop in to closed loop on idle.

Why shaun did this i'm not sure, maybe it had an idle issue when leaned out. Will find out I guess. :unsure:

The position of your o2 sensor may also make it lazy as its a fair distance from the back of the turbo and is smack in the middle where the wastegate pipe joines the exhaust.

Not optimal. :P

On the note of fuel economy.. I've just cracked 478km's and its just above the empty line, might get another 5km's before the light comes on, the strange thing is I've driven it harder than I usually do as I've got a set of tyres on the rear that grip. :yes:

02 feedback isnt the be-all and end all of economy. it cerainly is a brialliant out of the box solution for economy in self drive mode but there are alternatives

tune the car with 02 feedback off and leave it off if you wish. mine is tuned like that. 1.5 hours on the road with wideband sensor will sort out the cruise and low load AFRS to get your economy back. im seeing 400's on the street with peak hour traffic with 02 feedback off. 1.5hours tuner work should cover the cost of getting a new 02 sensor, installing it and wasting some fuel in the meantime.

Ash,

Bring it around some time and I will have another look.

I remember the 2 cells under the idle cells were set too rich that would cause it not to drop in to closed loop on idle.

Why shaun did this i'm not sure, maybe it had an idle issue when leaned out. Will find out I guess. >_<

The position of your o2 sensor may also make it lazy as its a fair distance from the back of the turbo and is smack in the middle where the wastegate pipe joines the exhaust.

Not optimal. :D

On the note of fuel economy.. I've just cracked 478km's and its just above the empty line, might get another 5km's before the light comes on, the strange thing is I've driven it harder than I usually do as I've got a set of tyres on the rear that grip. :)

cheers for the replies people's!

I'll be in touch with you soon joel and we'll have a fiddle with it!

I've got the car set to closed loop again now but i'm not sure if i should given that shaun obviously tuned it with it not in closed loop!

3.1V is something wrong. They only output a max of 1V so somethings whacky. And yeah a good O2 sensor will be operational well within within 1 minute of warmup. Some take longer cos the heater is burnt out or it is not heated at all.

you should only disable closed loop if you can tune it with a wideband sensor. i found when i turned closed loop off in some bits it was a bit too lean. as with closed loop on it leans it out and richens it up where its needed to get ideal 14.7afr. thats my experience anyway.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
    • One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea.   You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?
    • I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
×
×
  • Create New...