Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My cigarette lighter adaptor is broken. (not the actual lighter itself) but the bit where it plugs things into it.

I have tried using the car charger (for mobile phone) and also the the ciggy lighter... all doesn't work

i have a feeling that i might of blown a fuse or something..

i have opened up the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel panel and there seems to be alot of fuses, and the diagram for the fuses are all written in japanese.

any ideas?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125760-cigaretter-lighter-broken/
Share on other sites

I have noticed this with mine a while back.. as yet haven't bothered to fix it.

I am thinking that when I installed my deck and ran new wires, I broke the circuit to it. Maybe the deck and the cig lighter get power from the same loom?

can someone confirm or deny this?

good luck with it

Actually, i noticed that my ciggy lighter was broken too after the i installed the deck last week as well.

When i installed it, i heard some noises like beep beep (same sound as to where the keys are in the ignition and the doors are open). And i thought to myself... (oh..shit...). I didn't think too much of it after i got the deck working.

It was only yesterday i noticed that my ciggy lighter is broken.

(BTW, i have a R33)

i would really appreciate a translated fuse diagram if there is one. As i think the most likely cause would be a fuse....

Stick a torch in the fuse box and check for broken fuses.

or (If its abit hard) what I do is take out each fuse one by one and see which one is broken remembering where they go back.

Fuse diagram is also nice i think Ive seen one around somewhere. Do a search? :

Test each fuse in there... if you have a multimeter. It should only take 5 minutes.

Otherwise, the ciggy lighter gets power and earth from the same loom as the HU. It runs through a loom tube through the front of the facia, then under the gear-surround and into the socket. Might want to check that for power, as it could just be the contacts in the socket are too bent.

My ciggy lighter gets warm, but not hot enough to like my smoke when i've lost my lighter (annoying!). So I figure that it's a contact issue for my car at least.

R34 lighter stays inside the socket until it gets VERY HOT and pops out... I'm always afraid I might miss the hole and burn something when putting it back.

I had a non working lighter socket before, turned out being a disconnected wire (they used some sort of clip which came loose).

Yeah, all the lighters i've ever used work like that. My R33 however, doesn't stay in. I thought it might be a safety thing that you have to hold it in, but then it could get too hot or something. Might have to sus this out sometime.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...