Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Please

NimAjNeB

By NimAjNeB,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

NimAjNeB Rookie

NimAjNeB

Posted
Posted

It started at engine load at first, I changed the spark plugs to iridium plugs since they were recommended to me by the dealer I purchased the car from.

The miss started shortly after I got the 3 1/2 inch exhaust added and the bleed valve. It only happened at about > 5000RPM and the misses were very close together and continuous. Since then I have tried removing the bleed value and several other solutions such as changing the plugs back to standard platinum plugs. Also tried resetting the computer several times.

Both of these solutions seemed to have helped in the short term but then the problem started shortly after once again.

I have now noticed there is a miss once the car warms up at idle but it is very intermittent, it doesn't happen all the time and the idle RPM seems to vary and not stay at a constant.

I've been wondering if it could be the mass air flow sensor? Is there a test to see if this component is faulty?

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas?

Any help or ideas would be much appreciated.

Cheers

:D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125774-help-please/
Share on other sites
Anguss Newbie

Anguss

Posted
Posted

Sounds like it could be the AFM (Air Flow Meter). Cheapest way to test it is to swap it with another one to see if that resolves the issue...

It's easier with a GTR as you can disconnect one or the other and it will run off one AFM and stall if it's running off the faulty one!

Ask someone if you can temporarily swap it with someone else, maybe a mate that has the same car!

Also you could try getting the O2 Sensor checked, guess I should have checked what sorta car you have before posting lol. I just saw the thread and thought i'd have my lil say :D

Good luck mate..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125774-help-please/#findComment-2322137
Share on other sites
Beef Community Regular

Beef

Posted
Posted

Its very very easy to check if the air flow meter is faulty, unplug it and start the car, see if it idles all over the place like it did before.... if not then plug it back in... while the car is still going.... and listen for any changes...

as soon as you plug the afm back in... if the car changes idle speed and carries on... then it must be the afm that is faulty...

very very easy....

Beef

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125774-help-please/#findComment-2323151
Share on other sites
d00dz Grand Master

d00dz

Posted
Posted

Sounds like coils may have small cracks, and one or more of them arent working due to it? You are running higher boost and under load std parts tend to break.

Do a search on mis-fire or coils or sparks and there seems to be alot of info. :D

Check: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=32356

and to test your coils: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=124932

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125774-help-please/#findComment-2323160
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...