Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well here is my problem...

Plug in the pfc. The hand controller doesnt turn on. Put keys in and turn it to ACC. The hand controller turns on. Turn off the boost controller unit.

Turn the keys to "ON". At this stage the engine light and the exhaust temp sensor flashes repeatedly and I can hear a tapping noise comming from the fuel pump. Fuel pump seems to prime. I wait awhile crank the engine to try and start it and it wont budge!

Plug back the stock ECU and everything works, car starts, just doesnt like the PFC.

All alarms are turned off. (That I know of)

At first I thought it was a faulty PFC, but I tried another PFC and it did the same thing.

S1 RB25DET 5 Speed Manual.

I have no idea what is wrong. Suspecting its a wiring problem? The stock ECU is an old one with some sort of diagnostic knob at the back of it. :

Edit: In case people dont read this was fixed, cause is explined here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2327813

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125792-how-to-install-a-powerfc/
Share on other sites

Ill take the stock ECU out tommorrow and get some pictures.

Hmm had a re-read of paulr33's pfc faq and this might be my problem?

"Some cars only (for some strange reason) have half gauge wiring running from the battery to the ECU. This works fine for the factory computer but the PowerFC needs the full 12volts. You can simply run new 12volt wire from the battery to the ECU and this should correct this. This problem has been experienced by at least two members previously (both in R33 GTST)"?

I am unsure how the 12v feed will affect the PFC, other than "it doesnt work", I know the hand controller runs of a 5v feed. Try this.

FC in and hand controller in

turn to ACC

check out SENSOR SW CHECK under ETC

post up what sensors are in black (backlight) highlited

Hmm ok I have some pics of my "stock" ECU. See below.

This is what I just tried before..

I tried plugging in the PFC again. This time I took note of what happened.

Plugged in the wiring loom.

Plug in hand controller

Disable alarm

Turn the key to ACC. Nothing! Hand controller doesnt turn on! wtf?

Turn the key to ON, Hand controller comes up APEXI Screen then it just freezes at the "RB25DET" screen.

All this is happening whilst the engine light and exhaust temp sensors are flashing and the ticking sound is heard from the fuel tank.

Once again unplug everything and put stock ECU back and everything works fine.

Weird thing at back of ECU:

post-18389-1152695161.jpg

ECU Mounted:

post-18389-1152695196.jpg

Hmm after talking to people. Seems like the pic above is a stock ecu and nothing special about it.

This leads me to the wiring. The plug loom u see there is for the AVCR.

Or possibly the pfc isnt recieving enough volts at ACC to start up?

As the stock ECU only needs 8v to start, while the pfc needs the full 12v?

Hmmmmm

The PFC h/c and fuel pump prime should only show/be heard when in the on position, then a further turn to start will have the car start, letting go of the key returns it to the on position where the car continues to run.

Check the sensor sw screen and post up ALL of the values, preferably take a photo of the screen and post it.

joel, from what Victor has told me. it stays on the RB25DET version screen and doesn't continue through that point to the menu's. he was able to get in there ONCE while at hitmans to turn off the boost control.

he told me also that the AVCR doesn't have any values for INJ/TPS etc coming to it.

also what i found was strange, he said it doesn't Crank over when turning the key to start.

ahh no problems...

When my pfc was in for repairs it would hang on the intro screen when it wasn't receiving certian inputs. i.e simply running power through it. Once installed it was fine.

Its also been known for the plug to be slightly off and not done up straight causing it too to hang on the intro screen.

But yes if the avcr isn't receiving values either then something is definitely up. :unsure:

I would check removing the ecu hasn't broken/distrubed the work done on the loom when the avcr was isntalled.

should have elaborated a little..

the AVCR works fine when using the std ECU, but not at all when using the power FC.

edit - did yours crank over and just not start when your PFC fried ?

Edited by Craved

Havent checked fuses.. But with the std ECU works fine.

It may be the PFC simply not recieving enough volts. or wiring missmatch, though I cant see why.

Ill try jump starting it via jumper leads tommorow. Unless its bad to do this. :

It all too confusing right now..

jump starting it is, but if wont go past the rb25det version display then theres no point. the FC is locking up for some reason.

turn the car off.

hold up on the hand controller

turn it on.

what comes up?

d00dz I wouldnt be experimenting to much especialy with straight power ! I know nothing about this but hard wire jumping the car or Ecu cant be good ... get it tested or give it A fresh 12 volts but lighty fused...

Get it tested Professionaly so you know

You dont want to blow any Warrenties because your frustrated !

jump starting a car with a PFC is no different to stock ecu.

ive done it before twice and it works just as normal (as its supposed to).

it sounds like you have the wierd wiring (not 12v guage) at a guess

Hi Guys

had exactly the same prob the little blue relay next to the battery in the boot ticks like mad. iafter ripping half the dash apart and checking all the voltages from the pinouts it was just the fuse the fuse box has two rows top to bottom its the left hand row sixthfuse up runs fine on old ecu -nothing but start screen on PFC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...