Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If its an Airbag one you take off two plastic clips either side of the wheel. You will see a gold looking cap head bolt head with a star pattern on the inside. Two remove this you'll need a special "T" type allen key which you can buy at tool places, you will need a T50 for this particular bolt. Once each bolt has been removed the horn cover/airbag will come off. Unplug the connection on the back and set aside. Next you'll need a 19mm socket (from memory its 19mm anyway) and a breaker bar to undo the main nut on the steering collumn spline. Might pay to get a mate to hold the wheel as you do this as they are quite tight. Once this has been removed you simply have to remove the wheel off the spline, which can be quite difficult and may require a pulley puller. If you dont have access to one of these move your drivers seat foward and rest your knees on the bottom of the wheel and use your hands on the top to try and lever it off. Carefull it doest fly back and hit you in the face when it comes off though.

the method above it pretty much how you do it

but, undo the 19 mm (or is it 21?) and then when the nut comes off put it back on 3 turns and bash the steering wheel a bit with your fists around the edge, this losens it up quite a bit. then pull hard and it should pop off and hit the nut. thus preventing a face full of steering wheel and a broken nose.

  • 5 months later...

Sorry to bring up an old thread, but i plan to replace my steering wheel with a new air bag item soon.

I have heard to disconnect the battery as these air bags are electronically fired?

In the event something goes WAAAYY wrong the air bag will not fire into my face?

cheers

Just a little notice:

If we are talking about the steeringwheel, and youre about to replace it then take in consideration that your HICAS wont work if you just change the steeringwheel and doesnt have the appropriate fittings for the new one :laugh:

Cheers!

-David

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...