Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi there!

just a quick question... i am about to purchase a set of wiseco pistons with 87mm bore on GTR rods removed from an RB26 block, and was wondering whether my RB25 block can take these parts?

and if so, how much HP/boost can I push due to the thinner cylinder walls? or wont this have any effect?

thanks guys,

Nico

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126243-quick-question-on-engine-internals/
Share on other sites

Have you got your motor apart yet?

I personally wouldnt bore anymore than i needed too.

Like, if your motor is A-ok and you can get 86mm in there after machining etc, then thats what i would do.

But then there are some using 87mm without issues i *think*... someone will confirm as im sure there are a few :P

hi there!

just a quick question... i am about to purchase a set of wiseco pistons with 87mm bore on GTR rods removed from an RB26 block, and was wondering whether my RB25 block can take these parts?

and if so, how much HP/boost can I push due to the thinner cylinder walls? or wont this have any effect?

thanks guys,

Nico

It seems as though you are doing something similar to me.

I just bought the bits I need to build an rb25 with 87mm rb26 wiseco pistons stock rb26 rods and rb26 crank.

To use gtr rb26 pistons you have to use a gtr crank.

If you're using an rb25 crank then you can use the rb26 rods with rb25 pistons.

I was going to buy 2nd hand rb26 wisecos with rb26 rods but with new rings it would have cost nearly as much as new pistons.

I bought new wiseco pistons, cometic head gasket,acl race bearings and arp rodbolts/headstuds for a very good price

Boring 87mm shouldn't affect block strength too much and I'm not worried about leaving material for further rebuilds as 2nd hand rb25 blocks cost a lot less than forgies.

hmm...

this is bad news... i am about to buy RB26 rods with RB26 87mm Bore Wisecos on them...

so you are saying that they will not fit on my RB25 block?? what if i use a 1.6mm cometic HG?

is there actually any chance of these RB26 fitting onto my RB25 crank?

THanks!

Nico

rb25 and rb26 rods are almost identical, except rb26 rods are beefier so using them with rb25 pistons is fine as long as you're using the rb25 crank. the rods arent the issue.

to use rb26 pistons in an rb25 block, you'll need an rb26 crank. no machining is required to do so, and ive seen some floating around for around the $150-200 mark.

the rb26 has a larger throw, which is the reason you've got the .1L extra in capacity. using the rb26 rods on an rb25 crank will give you really shit compression as the throw is smaller.

RB26 and RB25 conrods are the same length

RB26 has 2 mm longer stroke than RB25

Hence an RB26 piston has the gudgeon pin 1 mm lower than an RB25 piston

So if you want to use RB26 pistons with an RB25 crank you need to machine 1 mm of the block to achieve the correct deck height,

Note that because of the smaller capacity of the RB25 (compared to the RB26) the compression ratio will be slightly lower than would be the case if you used those pistons in an RB26

None of which is a big deal

:D Cheers :D

RB26 and RB25 conrods are the same length

RB26 has 2 mm longer stroke than RB25

Hence an RB26 piston has the gudgeon pin 1 mm lower than an RB25 piston

So if you want to use RB26 pistons with an RB25 crank you need to machine 1 mm of the block to achieve the correct deck height,

Note that because of the smaller capacity of the RB25 (compared to the RB26) the compression ratio will be slightly lower than would be the case if you used those pistons in an RB26

None of which is a big deal

:D Cheers :O

aha ok...

so I can use 87mm Wisecos from RB26 and GTR Rods on my RB25 block with crank :(

dont you think that instead of having to machine 1mm of the block (see attached pict) away, it would be easier using a 1,6mm cometic head gasket? isnt that an alternative?

Thanks for helping guys :wave:

post-20771-1153127587.jpg

Edited by T-u-R-b-O
aha ok...

so I can use 87mm Wisecos from RB26 and GTR Rods on my RB25 block with crank :(

dont you think that instead of having to machine 1mm of the block (see attached pict) away, it would be easier using a 1,6mm cometic head gasket? isnt that an alternative?

Thanks for helping guys :wave:

if im not mistaken 1.6mm is BIGGER than a std gasket thickness...

so using that instead of taking the 1mm of the block will make everything WORSE ..

your taking 1mm off the block to INCREASE the compression... adding a larger gasket REDUCES compression..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
    • Good to know, thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...