Jump to content
SAU Community

Fmic Piping

stagon

By stagon,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

stagon Apprentice

stagon

Posted
Posted

hi guys,

what is your opinion on running the intercooler piping back under the cooler and up the same side as the air box. i have been told that in order to run it up the battery (driver) side i will have to install a smaller battery facing longways. As it is an auto dont want to run out of charge and have to get jump started. as i have already purchased cooler with pipe goung out either side do you think the bend back under the pipe will be too restricting?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/
Share on other sites
Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted (edited)
hi guys,

what is your opinion on running the intercooler piping back under the cooler and up the same side as the air box. i have been told that in order to run it up the battery (driver) side i will have to install a smaller battery facing longways. As it is an auto dont want to run out of charge and have to get jump started. as i have already purchased cooler with pipe goung out either side do you think the bend back under the pipe will be too restricting?

This is the style of pipework I use, goes though the inner guard under the battery in the Stagea (under the windscreen washer bottle in the picture which is an R33GTST, they have the batttery in the boot).

med_gallery_1903_124_22845.jpg

:P cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2332581
Share on other sites
Ska Grand Master

Ska

Posted
Posted

I have piping that comes out under my battery, but I have a smaller battery, BUT I dont really need a smaller battery, for pics go through the pics in the link in my sig, I cfb right now :P

FYI My Oddessy battery has 880CCA, and it is teeeny tiny!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2332586
Share on other sites
FLYSLY Mentor

FLYSLY

Posted
Posted

SKA- i was looking at your pics of your fmic piping under the battery tray, and i was wondering if your piping sits lower than your chassis?

But i think what stagon is talking about is running the piping through the battery tray ie:cutting a hole in the battery tray meaning he would have to turn the battery so it sits side on so the piping fits through with the battery still there.

like with most fmic kits you buy for 180's and skylines etc...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2332828
Share on other sites
CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)

just a question when running the intake side under the battery tray through the side i now have no room for my window washer bottle :banana: hows everyone else doing it with the same setups??? or do u just get a smaller washer bottle from soemthing else????

mines the 26 but it still runs through the same spot just under the battery tray but just above the chassis rail.

ideas peoplz???

:)

heres a pic of where my pipe runs through the body

106_0672.jpg

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2333085
Share on other sites
AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted

Yes Cyrus, you are wrong. Your pipes go under your chassis rails like mine did. You have no hole cut.

As far as how low it sits, ive never had any problems at all with hitting my pipes. Infact, they sit pretty high compared to the front bar.

My pipes are for sale if anyone is interested.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2333592
Share on other sites
CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)
cost me $250 and a case of beer all up, once i sold my standard intercooler :whistling:

only thing im yet to do is mount the "Modified" washer bottle

hey andy is that a modified stock stagea washer bottle is it or another one from a different car?

i gotta sort something out for mine now that i can actually drive the old girl ;)

my piping (3") and greddy type r bov (big sucker) are under the spot so i got absolutely stuff all room unfortunately. might have to make up an aluminium one to suit the room i have.

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2335313
Share on other sites
EGA41T Mentor

EGA41T

Posted
Posted
hey andy is that a modified stock stagea washer bottle is it or another one from a different car?

i gotta sort something out for mine now that i can actually drive the old girl :whistling:

my piping (3") and greddy type r bov (big sucker) are under the spot so i got absolutely stuff all room unfortunately. might have to make up an aluminium one to suit the room i have.

i just cut off a section of the washer bottle, and used some plastic from a bucket to cover where it was chopped off. then used silicone to stop any leaks. not the most professional job but it sits inside the drivers side inner gaurd so you cant see it anyway.

i still havnt figured out how i will mount it yet, i'll work something out when i get around to putting it back on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2335375
Share on other sites
qikstagea Mentor

qikstagea

Posted
Posted

I'd be a fan of getting a front feed manifold, or midifying the standard to front feed, for less clutter.

Ive heard that the shorter the inlet tract, the better the throttle response... thats what its about in the end, right? perfomance? id make it a short as possible. im not one for dressy engine bays, function over from under the bonnet.

MAKE it fit!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2335377
Share on other sites
AlexCim Grand Master

AlexCim

Posted
Posted
So has anyone actually cut the battery tray so the intercooler pipe can go through there.

Not the side like cruiseliner but the top section the actual battery tray?

So, where would the battery go? I know i dont want a battery in the same cabin as me incase I roll over and get battery acid all over me.

This isnt a Silvia :whistling:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2335473
Share on other sites
qikstagea Mentor

qikstagea

Posted
Posted

i think you may be right there, jason. Cos it is designed to be side fed, really. But a GTR inlet manifold... would it fit, and would it be a better option? I can get greddy front feeds from a supplier in japan. worth it? or not unless you really go big?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126336-fmic-piping/#findComment-2335511
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...