Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i got 265/30/19 on the back

i know it would be out but i dunno if it would be that much...good to know though

ben...

I don't think it is out based on my calculations (ok a spreadsheet did it for me.)

Also see Bass Junky's post above yours.

My latest dyno sheet has rpm so yay for that. I heard the reason why most of them have road speed is because when they buy the dyno the rpm thing is an option which costs too much so people think cost/benefit not worth it.

well somone dignose my dyno chart, cos i put in my figures and this is what i got.

I have a 3" exhaust and dump, high flow pump, SAFC II, plugs gapped at .65mm, HKS pod, FMIC, stock turbo,

I made 187rwks at 10.2 psi with boost spike, my boost controller shit itself.

I have crap coils, and i am about to get new ones, but as you can see, i make a lot less power through the rev range and then bag, it goes of it's nuts. What the hell can it be, the coils, the tune what is it. and how do i fix it

post-27760-1161764394.jpg

well somone dignose my dyno chart, cos i put in my figures and this is what i got.

I have a 3" exhaust and dump, high flow pump, SAFC II, plugs gapped at .65mm, HKS pod, FMIC, stock turbo,

I made 187rwks at 10.2 psi with boost spike, my boost controller shit itself.

I have crap coils, and i am about to get new ones, but as you can see, i make a lot less power through the rev range and then bag, it goes of it's nuts. What the hell can it be, the coils, the tune what is it. and how do i fix it

Dunno if this is the right thread for this but was it misfiring on the dyno?

I put my 2000 model R34 GTT dyno results in there too... thought i'd upload the altered database so more ppl can add to it and compare.

Not sure if I updated the right database, so many different versions in this thread.

post-18775-1161866186.jpg

Edit: took out my corrupt database

I keep getting the compressed file is invalid or corrupted but I can see your graph.

I've added to the previous version.

It's interesting to compare Bass' and mine, basically the only difference is I'm using more boost.

post-7957-1161907681.gif

Power_Curve_XL_Sheet.zip

Anyone want this turned into a PHP / MYSQL page? Would it get used enough?

Could have the option to attach a JPG of your actual Dyno as well... Then maybe tickboxes like:

Compare:

Bass Junky

Abo Bob

Lithius

So that when there is a heap in there its not just a huge mix of graphs...

Let me know.

Cheers,

Dave

55 60 62 65 68 70 73 75 80 85 88 91 95 98 99 102 104 105 108 107 110 107 108 112 115 128 135 148 169 175 183 187 182 180 180 180 182 183

2143 2250 2357 2464 2571 2679 2786 2893 3000 3107 3214 3321 3429 3536 3643 3750 3857 3964 4071 4179 4286 4393 4500 4607 4714 4821 4929 5036 5143 5250 5357 5464 5571 5679 5786 5893 6000 6107

60 63 66 69 72 75 78 81 84 87 90 93 96 99 102 105 108 111 114 117 120 123 126 129 132 135 138 141 144 147 150 153 156 159 162 165 168 171

Are the RPM steps the same every time or would you have to go through and fill in:

RPM - RWKW - Optional: PSI & AFR

for each step?

I could host it on my site, and I only use if for email and I have like 20gb storage and 50gb / day data transfer. But I dont really have an efficient way to lock it down. I can integrate it into the forum if it was hosted on a section of SAu, then you would have to be registered on the forum to use it...

Is it possible to make it so that you can enter either road speed or rpm? I have a dyno sheet that is neatly broken up into 500rpm major and 100rpm minor increments which makes it easy but most people have ones that have road speed.

I didn't quite understand the earlier discussion about converting it so I can't really comment in that regard.

AFR would be interesting but I think not as useful as boost and power.

To clarify, the steps are not the same for every sheet, so something that was able to extrapolate for missing values would be awesome but I fear I am creating a monster with this comment. Perhaps near enough is good enough. That's how I entered it in this time cos the rpms are not the same as on my sheet, I just used the one closest.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...