Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, my mate is contemplating finding a replacement box for his DR30 5speed wich has done 200 odd thousand k's.. Of course he would rather spend the money on performance upgrades as it's still relitively stock..

This thing crunches BAD into 2nd.. Although the last time the box oil was replaced is anyones guess, as the last owner seemed to think engine oil changes were'nt all that important :blush:

So does my mate find a good cond box for $500+

Or spend the $90 odd on this wonder oil and hope it patches things up for the moment?

Also is a diff oil change likely to tighten up the feel of a clutch pack LSD?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/126695-just-how-good-is-redline-shockproof/
Share on other sites

if you can wait until monday or tuesday next week for an answer, i can tell you?

i have a 200,000km old gearbox, and am putting some redline lightweight shockproof into it on Sunday...

currently the gearbox is very notchy, and will crunch if you do a quick change high in the revs. Also whines a bit.

I'm hoping with the Redline oil, it will quieten down a bit and make changes a bit easier!

my diff also single-wheels alot, and whines like a bitch, as its just as old, and i am putting some Motul Gear300 into that to see how that goes... i'm not expecting it to fix it singlewheeling, though i'm hoping it might quieten it down a bit.

Tell him to fill it with auto trans fluid and a little moreys heavy duty oil stabilizer. Apparently around 20-25% morey's, and the rest whatever oil you choose.

If that doesn't get it shifting, its time for a rebuild or replacement box

if the synchro is gone, tell him how to learn to drive properly (i.e. flat shift on upchange, revmatch on downchange etc) :devil:

i've found with my box (it has dodgey synchros too i'm pretty sure, hence the crunching into gears at high revs/notchiness) that if i revmatch on downchange, it slots into gear nicely 99% of the time...

Well I went from some standard oil to the redline stuff. Just because of changing jobs its harder to get to my mechanic etc.

It IS better, but its not like some people say where its gods love juice.

If you pull out the redline oil manual it tells you why its better. Its a thicker oil with all the additive stuff already in it all made to work with each other, so its effectivly thinner/more slippy. Just like putting in a thinner oil. Just with less protection.

So instead of spending allll that money on redline, just (as above) get some auto fuild, wack that in for a week. If it fixes it leave it in or go the redline, if its still crunching get the new gearbox.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...