Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys got my car dynoed then i noticed engine light was coming on around 4,500rpm rang dyno guy and he said it was afm maxing out and nothing to worry about. Now i checked and was only getting 35 knock max so obviously its not pinging, then last night i noticed that the engine light wasnt coming on anymore and that instead the exhaust temperature light ( the one with the picture of a cat with waves going over it) was coming on instead?? I was running some extra octane boost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127097-exhaust-temp-light/
Share on other sites

Just means the sensor where the cat is is very very hot. Usually happens after you give the car a good caining in the hills, at least I know mine did.

Mine does the same thing but only after a LOT of punishment in 1st/2nd gear sort of areas if that helps?

Ok thanks mate, weird thing is it came on as soon as i took my 4wd fuse out and put my car in rwd then i gave her some and it started to flash, i put the fuse back in and she still comes on, only thing i can think is that some how the sensor got knocked off the bottom of the car where i had tucked it in.

I adding the octane boost as i filled up with crap caltex fuel and my car started to hit 70 knock so i thought it make a diffence which it did, never using that fuel again!

ok you need to be clear on which one you are talking about

engine check light

or

exhaust temp light

your topic says exhaust temp and the content says engine check light

engine check light - orange engine icon

ehaust temp light - red box with squiggly lines

engine check light

used by powerfc to indicate;

airflow meter maxing out

injectors maxing out

knock exceeded 60

the powerfc faq tells you how to diagnose and check for all 3 items and how to disable/enable them

exhaust temp light;

used by powerfc to indicate;

exhaust cat is too hot

either disable the sensor or get the cat checked (could be blocked)

It is the exhaust temp one im talking about, i have a de cat and the sensor is not plugged in and it wasnt flashing before.

There is also a red light under the cat over heating light what is that light for thats the one which was coming on before the exhaust temp one did?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
×
×
  • Create New...