Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20det Loom Help...

Simon-S14

By Simon-S14,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

Have had huge issues with my RB20det lately, probs are, ignition cutting out at various points in the rev range (not a miss fire like a plug or coilpack would do, but rather a total ignition cut of all 6 cylns) Some times the problem is only while drifting through corners and not in a straight line.. but a couple of times it has happened while on fullboost in 3-4th gear in a straight line and the ignition will cut out, come back, cut out quite repetively.

Now while this is happening, the Tacho also dies... so to me it indicates a loose wire, or a problem somewhere in the wiring of the ignition system. This resulted in me pulling my loom out.. have a look at it and tell me if all the electrical taping in black is factory or not? I know the red tape looks to be non factory...

1003708vs2.jpg

1003708hk0.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127226-rb20det-loom-help/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Nissan does some funny stuff with its wiring, and I believe it is hand wrapped. Some of the black tape looks like a home job, but it's actually factory. Mine was the same. Red is probably extras somebody else has added on.

It could be a CAS problem? A few have had that problem on rb20det's. I think the ECU determines the RPM / Tacho signal from the CAS as well.

darkl0n Contributor

darkl0n

Posted
Posted

i had a issue like this, it would drive fine, then it would start cutting out. it did not matter if you were in a high or low gear, some times i could rev it to 7k and it would be fine, then other times it would just cust out.

i replaced the o2 sensor and it has been fine ever since.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

To test if its the o2 sensor.. remove the o2 sensor plug. Car will work fine without it. Just won't run in closed loop mode, and you'll use more petrol.

Its something like the o2 sensor immitantly sends faulty signals the ecu has problems. But if you remove it totally you can isolate the problem a bit more closely.

I'm not sure how you test the CAS, you'd need to monitor the voltage signals, or use the consult connector to see what's going on.

Also when it does fail, stop the car, and put the ecu in fault mode, and it should flash the sequence for the last thing that failed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      R33 GTR running -9 with no tune

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Duncan
      New kid on the block

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Duncan
      Coolant leak?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • GTSBoy
      Coolant leak?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Chupapy
      Coolant leak?

      By Chupapy · Posted

      Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...