Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey fellas...just a quick afm question...the afm in my 32 just shat itself yesterday and i managed to get another one off a mate just so that i can drive the car...problem is...the wire screens on both ends of the replacement afm have been removed...mate did it to improve flow...i was just wondering if not having the screens there would cause any problems? be it with idle or air/fuel mixtures...cheers...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127274-quick-afm-question/
Share on other sites

there is an article on this in the latest HPI and according to them is better if you dont have the screens in there at all.

but at the same time they recommended moving the AFM to after the cooler.

Are they seriously printing that shite - those f**king idiots. Lets remove the screen for an extra pooftienth of a HP. I know removing the screens on nissan based airflow meters doesn't make much difference to the fueling and ignition but its so not the case with other manufactures where the screen is there for straightening purposes.

there is an article on this in the latest HPI and according to them is better if you dont have the screens in there at all.

where does it say that?

quote from HPI - page 107

picture 9 - "airflow meters that have been 'de-screened', such as this VG30 unit, are often more prine to pulse problems due to their large cross-sectional surface area"

page 108

picture 11 - "you can see how much surface area of the airflow meter inlet the wire gauze takes up. Adding an extra "screen" then reduces the inlet size to the engine dramatically, and costs you power in the prcess. Don't do it!"

Thats what I thought also ben...

I also had a couple noticable issues when I removed the mesh on mine.

1. Idle wasn't as stable

2. When coming off hard throttle the car would act as if I had stabbed the accel. quickly causing the car to give a little lunge forward 'just' after I jumped off the throttle.

It may have been just me but I swear spool improved a tad, but it may have just been running a tad richer as mine was (with the mesh on) running in the mid 13's until around 4000rpm. As with flow the center flows quicker, removing the mesh would only increase center airflow.

I don't know a whole heap about flow dynamics but I do remember it went something like that. :wave:

Thats what I thought also ben...

I also had a couple noticable issues when I removed the mesh on mine.

1. Idle wasn't as stable

2. When coming off hard throttle the car would act as if I had stabbed the accel. quickly causing the car to give a little lunge forward 'just' after I jumped off the throttle.

It may have been just me but I swear spool improved a tad, but it may have just been running a tad richer as mine was (with the mesh on) running in the mid 13's until around 4000rpm. As with flow the center flows quicker, removing the mesh would only increase center airflow.

I don't know a whole heap about flow dynamics but I do remember it went something like that. :O

Yah i had a problem with my old custom made AFM being too close to the turbo causing very strange problems.. gets super rich after slight spool. :)

Made a nice split intake pipe now. looks pimp.

i have a Q45 im about to install, unfortunately someone removed the rear screen ... :O

seems likely according to said article in HPi, that the rear screen would dampen the affects of reversion on the AFM.. while the front screen would be doing what everyone believes and regulates the airflow into the AFM...

As I had a couple of small issues that annoyed me I bought some mesh, cut it to fit and glued it in. Looked like a new one. :O

I was a little worried the superglue (was the most expensive I could find) would let go due to the heat but after several checks and many kays it hung in there perfectly fine.

As I had a couple of small issues that annoyed me I bought some mesh, cut it to fit and glued it in. Looked like a new one. :O

I was a little worried the superglue (was the most expensive I could find) would let go due to the heat but after several checks and many kays it hung in there perfectly fine.

would you think silicon would work as well?

where abouts did you get the fine mesh from?

might see if there are any issues and try it out if there are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...