Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I agree with Brad too, it's not too hard to get the sump plug out without copping oil on yourself.

That plug IS a good idea, but you'd hope that it doesn't extend too far down to get caught and ripped off on something, and the price is too high!

In the end I think you would get much more interest if you posted in the general section.

I guess it all depends how you change your oil. Personally, I am the biggest klutz, and when I change my oil, I dont have the luxury of a trolly jack, so I only just have enough room underneath to reach in with my hands to undo the sump plug, I always get my hands covered in oil and usually lose the plug into the bucket I catch the oil with.

So for ~$50 to save me all that hassle, meh why not?

I am just worried because I am so low, would it catch on anything, or be whacked by a high speed bump, or get hooked on something, but they say it is only 10mm longer than the standard plug, and they report they have never had any problems, but that is easy to say, they wont lunch thier engine if mine decides to be the first plug to be ripped off......

Anyway I reckon it is a good idea and you would attract more people by posting this outside the stagea section.

Have fun!

i have had a reply from the company that they are willing to do a group buy and i will try and transfer the email they sent me into a post but if it doesnt work i will type it out in here the long way

Edited by oxford1327

here is the email he sent me so all i need from you guys is some names and addressses etc. and will get it rolling

Hi Oxford,

I’ve just taken a look at the forum and there seems to be a bit of interest. Well done.

If you get 5 buyers, I will do the valves for $49 including delivery to anywhere in Australia.

If you get 10, I will do them for $45 each.

If you get 20, they will be $41 each.

These prices are for the non-nippled version. I suggest getting the non-nippled. The nippled version is not needed unless you want to relocate where the oil will come out (i.e. with a hose, say, if you had a sump guard that you didn’t want to remove every time you change the oil). Add $4 for the nippled.

Most late model Nissans take the F-103 valve (12mm x 1.25mm pitch).

The only thing I ask, is that someone manage the group buy (eg. yourself). Collect all the money, pay me, then send me a list of names and addresses and I will ship out. Do the group buy whenever you are ready.

Just to answer a few questions and clarify.

The valve sticks out more than the standard sump plug only by about 10mm. Usually, sump plugs are on an angle, so the actual clearance isn’t reduced by much at all.

It is double action locking mechanism so you’d have to be pretty unlucky to have it accidentally knocked open by something hitting it.

It’s not a new invention. It’s been around for over 15 years. It’s just that it hasn’t been marketed to the auto industry in Oz. A lot of trucking and industrial use them. Nissan Japan (as well as other manufacturers in Japan) actually has them as an OEM part (I have a picture of the packaging somewhere).

People are saying the price is too high. It’s less than a bottle of synthetic and you only have to buy one. Over the life of the vehicle, it’s not going to equate to much.

There are always going to be people who say they are waste of time, blah, blah, and I do agree that they are not a necessity, but so are a lot of things on cars. My main buyers are guys with 4WDs that change their oil, every 5000. Just makes it that little bit easier to do as a regular thing. Turbo cars obviously benefit from more regular changes as well.

If you have any questions, feel free to contact me.

Regards,

Jack

0402 399 445

i have posted up a thread in the group buy section of the site so if all would like to have a look there and see what you think? as it is my first go at doing anything like this please bear with me and feel free to advise me guys?

also can some one please pm me and give me a lesson on how to add in a link to the group buy page in my post?

Edited by oxford1327

All you do is copy the link, (highlight it all and then hold Ctrl and hit C), from the address bar up the top of your browser and then paste it, (Click in the reply section, where you type replys, and then hold Ctrl and hit V) into the reply section

just an update guys.

i recieved a call from the guys at fumoto today and they said that i should be recieveng my drain valve either monday or tuesday and am due for an oil change very soon anyway so will be able to tell you all how well it works and the quality of the thing too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...