Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, Just this morning i noticed that my oil pressure guage was sitting a little lower than normal, i didnt think much of it but after my usual commute to work i stopped to grab a drink, when i started up again the oil pressure guage said there was F**k-all pressure.... :P

Im not too certain as to what this means but im sure as hell hoping that i dont have a rooted bottom end.. :blink:

Any help appreciated,

Thanks all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127630-oil-pressure-problem/
Share on other sites

ok i have a bit further info,

I drove the same way home and the oil pressure guage was showing at the 2 mark, and at idle was showing just under.

I did notice a little lack of response but i didnt push the car too hard either, i checked the oil when i got home and it is perfect gold colour and there is plenty in there.

The only thing that may have done this was the night before i took off the oil filler cap while the car was running which made the engine shudder a bit, but i was quick to put it back on realising that id upset the pressure....

Would that have done it? There is no death knock rattle or anything else?

As for the oil pressure, I've seen heaps of turbo nissan's that read next to zero pressure on the gauge ( mine included ). Almost every time, when the pressure is checked at the oil pressure switch, it's fine. Inside the Oil Pressure gauge is a red light which is on before starting. Should this come on while driving, you've got a problem
(FAT32)

Ok, not so worried now, mental note, do a better search, noob lesson learnt.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
    • Not yet quite as bad as what we've seen a Jim Berry clutch do in an R32 GTR though when it decided to cut a chassis rail in half... Still very very gnarly and a great reason to avoid.
×
×
  • Create New...