Jump to content
SAU Community

Autometer C2 Tacho

HOT_R33

By HOT_R33,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

Col-GTSX Grand Master

Col-GTSX

Posted
Posted

Very construstive advice there Greg, just like the one I just saw in the spotted skyline thread...

Put a resistor in line with the bulb...

Run it in series... About 1 ohm should knock a bit of brightness out of it. Otherwise get a variable pot of lets say 1-5 ohms and then it will be adjustable...

Once again run it in series...

Cost you less than 20 cents for an inline resistor and about $2 for a variable pot...

Cheap as chips...

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

that's like a beacon out in the middle of the sea.

i dont think u needed to point an arrow to it, i reckon we would have found it anyways.

go the resistor. if it's still too bright, add another resistor, or one of higher value.

HOT_R33 Proficient

HOT_R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Here you go Sean...

Simple wiring diagram for ya... Just need to wiring it in series and your sorted...

Thanks col, only problem is I've mis-placed my manual for it and all the wires are in those wierd american colours, don't know which wire is the one that connected to the head lights. :(

Oz Grand Master

Oz

Posted
Posted

1.) Check the power to the White (illumination) wire. This is your power input to the light and the amount of power will vary depending on how and where you have it hooked up. The lower the power, the dimmer the light and the higher the power, the brighter the light. A common range is from 6 to 14 volts.

2.) If your tach features LED lighting such as Cobalt, C2, or NV models, and you have confirmed power to the White (illumination) wire, please visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to communicate with our Tech Department.

3.) If your tach uses a replaceable incandescent bulb (check your instructions), inspect the filament of the bulb and replace as necessary. Very few of our tachometers use an incandescent bulb that is not consumer replaceable. If you believe you have one of these units, please visit the Ask A Question or Contact Us pages to inquire about having the bulb replaced.

That Might help...

www.autometer.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      S1 Autech 260RS Wiring Diagrams

      By ARB26 · Posted

      Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • DanMac34
      R34 Speedo not working after manual swap

      By DanMac34 · Posted

      Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • joshuaho96
      Speed Sensor replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • QB6SAGR
      Tein Circuit Master- rebuild worth it?

      By QB6SAGR · Posted

      Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • funkymonkey
      Howdy Y'all

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
×
×
  • Create New...