Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have r33 gtst running 11psi with just jap front mount 600x300x76, k&n pod clod air exhaust..etc.

when you floor the acelarator if seems to have a flat spot around 4-5000 rpm then picks up again, feels like its holding back ...but if you let it rev out without flooring it its not to bad...sometimes it revs out smooth ...running 9 psi it feels like it pulls harder and revs smoother.. should i change plugs or the gap...coil packs...

any help... :happy: could it be leaning out...

Edited by SS#eater

I would have to take a stab @ R&R is kicking in.. what's happening is that it's ramping up the boost.. detecting the increased air flow.. than dumping in fuel and retarding the timing..e.g. rich & retard - protection system is kicking in to prevent over boosting..

By slowly easing it in - you won't experience this as it won't see a huge spike of air flow..

I would suggest lowering the boost.. or just not slamming the foot down in 1st and 2nd..

OR - get a power fc and tune it..

edit - It won't be leaning out.. if it's using the stock ecu this is a protection system.. and will be riching up the mixture instead..

Do a bit of a search. you'll find plenty of topics..

Edited by Links

Rich & Retard it is, I have exactly the same mods making about 0.8bar and the same thing happens with freshly gapped Iridium plugs. I have a Power FC which is about to be tuned, should solve all the problems. Alternatively a cheaper solution would be a SAFC II.

can i ask why your gapping Iridium plugs though?

anyways.. if your not runing iridiums in yours SS#eater.. invest in another set ..with a 0.8 gap ... coppers.

its fairly typical of a 33 to have the flat spot... only way to tuen it out is the above mentioend SAFC or PFC.....

oh and is your K&N filter the oiled type? i dont thnk that woould be giving your AFM much to work with coating the sensor with oil.

Edited by Angry
can i ask why your gapping Iridium plugs though?

anyways.. if your not runing iridiums in yours SS#eater.. invest in another set ..with a 0.8 gap ... coppers.

its fairly typical of a 33 to have the flat spot... only way to tuen it out is the above mentioend SAFC or PFC.....

oh and is your K&N filter the oiled type? i dont thnk that woould be giving your AFM much to work with coating the sensor with oil.

yeah it is an oil type..it will be gone today!....iridum plugs and power fc...there goes my bank account..lol

thanks for the help let you know how it goes...

sorry to butt in, but it isn't rich and retard mapping. it is to do with the cams. you will find that cars that are stock will do it (i mean completely stock, exhaust and all). a pfc won't fix it at all. there is a thread on here where people were trying to shift the cam change point to get rid of it but it didn't really make a difference.

I will put money on it been rich and retard. Regap your plugs to 0.8 if that doesnt work get a power FC or a SAFC. My car used to do the same thing even when stock the more mods I did the worse it got. SAFC fixed the problem for me.

cheers

it can't be rich and reatrd if it does it when stock. why would nissan a protection in that happens when the motor is stock?

it is the hydraulic cams changing back. the switch at 1500rpm, then back at 4500rpm. there is a thread on here that explains it. had a quick look but couldn't find it, will look again later.

rich and retard is a sudden loss of power. it is a violent stop/start, not a slow point of acceleration.

Drop boost to 10 psi, get a safc from the for sale section and ur sweet. if the car runs good on 9psi but crap on 11psi then meet half way and get the fuel mixtures tuned :starwars: have a nice day.

it can't be rich and reatrd if it does it when stock. why would nissan a protection in that happens when the motor is stock?

it is the hydraulic cams changing back. the switch at 1500rpm, then back at 4500rpm. there is a thread on here that explains it. had a quick look but couldn't find it, will look again later.

rich and retard is a sudden loss of power. it is a violent stop/start, not a slow point of acceleration.

I don't believe that this is what is happening.. Mine does it depending on how quickly my boost ramps up.. doesn't matter what RPM.. ease it in.. and it's fine.. flatten it.. it spikes.. and I get a slight dip than it comes back up..

Could be spark plugs getting blown out..

It's a stock motor - running 3PSI than the maximum all the way through the rev range.. that's what will do it.. say your spooling by 3,000rpm.. that's 5 or 6PSI (Double) what the ecu would be expecting to see.. that would explain why it R&R's..

HOWEVER there may be something else going on.. but I don't believe that it's the cams changing.. as I get smooth power all the way through the rev range in 3rd or 4th gear when easing it on.. even in 2nd.. Oh and my cars very stock except for the bleed valve

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...