Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fibreglassing looks easy... but is isn't

Doing the whole dash is going to cost you a mint in raw materials.

You can't just shape fibreglass to how you want it and it just dries there, it need a mould. Easiest way to do it probly buying a heap of cheap foam from clarke rubber and cut it to shape. Apply a light layer of fiberglass to make a rough shell, hack out foam, add more fibreglass layers.

I've made door pods before using a wooden frame that I covered in material to give it shape. After a fair bit of bog it look pretty average still, it was a first attempt though. I just spray painted it after a bit of sanding so it looked shithouse. To get a decent finish you need to bog and sand it, more sanding, then apply a gel coat. Gel coats have a kind of filler/wax that smooths out tiny lumps and bumps that come out when you paint it. If your going to vinyl it you just need to bog and sand it. When you put the vinyl on put a thin foam backing on it and it looks awesome (and feels kinda squishy when you push it in).

I got my stuff from -

Kirkside Products

21 Roberts St West Osborne Park WA 6017

ph: (08) 9242 2990

They let you buy the matting and resin by the meter/liter. They also have a heap of gel coats of various colors aswell as weaved fiberglass if you got money to burn.

If you ever want some help just shoot me a pm

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...