Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the lever is like any other ball valve once it is turned it stays in place. so you don't hafta hold it just unlock and turn then continue about the other stuff req'd for services etc.

well guys my valve arrived in the mail today so will be changing my oil on wednesday and will update everyone on whether its a good thing or not eg: ease of fitment, how secure it is when in the closed position etc.

it certainly looks the goods though!

well guys my valve arrived in the mail today so will be changing my oil on wednesday and will update everyone on whether its a good thing or not eg: ease of fitment, how secure it is when in the closed position etc.

it certainly looks the goods though!

pending oxfrod1327's feedback im in

post-26133-1154492446.jpgpost-26133-1154492498.jpghello all.

well i installed the valve today and it works a treat, as i always buy some cheap synthetic oil to flush through and make sure i get most of the gunk out before puttin the new motul in.

once i got the original oil out i installed the new valve made sure it was closed off and refilled the engine with the crappy oil,started the engine and let it idle for bout five mins to check for leakage etc. before taking it for a quick spin to load it up a bit so as to circulate through the whole system.

i then put the car back on my hoist and let it out again, it was surprisingly easy to use and if you look from the front of the car underneath you cannot even see the valve so i reckon there is bugger all chance it can be sheared off as some people feared.

all in all i give the valve a big thumbs up and my old man saw it and reckons its a good thing as if you really wanted to you could drain the oil without having to even jack the car up as there would be no requirement for tools just a pan and some ground clearance.

i will try and get some clear pics of the install and how much of it you can see under the car from on your knees etc. and post them up for the doubters. in the pics added you can see that the cross member is the lowest part, so if thevalve was to be gettin torn off there is a fair chance that you are already on the way to a massive repair bill when you go back and pick up your engine off the ground hahaha

Edited by oxford1327

the buy will be getting done at the end of this month so as to give the most oppurtunity for people to jump in on it, we already have almost 20 people that have chucked their hand up for one so as soon as i get my end of it sorted i will be listing payment details etc.

as listed in the first couple of posts if we get over 20 buyers the valves will be $41 including delivery.but i reckon the more the better eh?

Can you find out what postage costs are - I'm in Perth...
as listed in the first couple of posts if we get over 20 buyers the valves will be $41 including delivery. but i reckon the more the better eh?

So I reckon more than 20 buyers will be easy to get!

Make sure you PM everyone when time comes

list of interested parties has been updated in the first post if people are interested it looks as though we already have 18 and a couple of maybes.

and its only the 6th of the month.

i am gonna go to the bank tomorrow and organise an account for this to be paid into and will post up the details as soon as i can

one question. since its a ball valve and its underneath. exposed to dirst, water ETC. Will the ball valve works in the long run? if this matter is clarified i want one as well. Will it fit the RB26 engine ? Let me know.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...