Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wondering...

Any of you guys and gals have any idea what could be wrong? My dash lights wont work.

On sunday andrew ripped the standard stereo out and put in our new one. As of sunday night I now have no dash lights. Headlights are still working though.

A few people have suggested to check the fuses. We check them this afternoon and none are blown (every single one was checked)

I know that when you turned your lights on the climate control panel and the stereo lights would dim.... Could this have sometime to do with the fact that the lights aren't now working?

The climate control panel is still working.. just not the dash lights and the boost gauge light.

Any ideas would be muchly appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1279-dash-lights-wont-work/
Share on other sites

Hey Nismogirl,,,you say you both have check all the fuses,,,,did you check the 4 under the bonnet?. One is for the Tail lights,,,it has control over your dash lights as well. Test the Dash lights dimmer control,,,,yea that crap one installed for compliance,,,,disconnect it and join the wires together. One last one,,,,My Dimmer had scotch locks contecting it to the dash lights,,,,REMOVE them if you have them,,,,solder and insulate them.

Hope this helps...

neil

So the fuses for the lights are under the bonnet??

We looked at them but didn't take them out. Kind of just said "Hey theres some fuses!"

But... i'm not very mechanically minded. So... Andrew going away as of tomorrow and I think hes not fixing it on purpose cause he doesn't want me to drive the car. So i'll go somewhere and get it fixed.

I had the same problem, are your tail-lights blown as well?

When he installed the stereo, did he ground it to an exisiting wire he metered out?

I did that, and it just so happened to blow some fuses (Dash, and Tail lights), so I created my own ground. Get him to do that, and replace the fuse UNDER THE BONNET

Hmm.. Bonnet.. the thing at the front....

I had exactly the same problem in my 33.... and it took me a while

but i found the fuse i blew was at the back next to the battery in

the black casing.

Nismogirl, i'm not sure what car you drive but i assume its a 33?

Hope this helps. It's a 10amp fuse.

Originally posted by NismoGirl

Well I'm stuck now

Andrews not coming over and I've now realised I also have no tail lights..  

And I'm as mechanical as a potatoe... so I can't fix it

:P  

I think i might cry right now

I had a really good weekend planned too :cuss:

Ah Nismogirl we can guide you though this little problem easily...:burnout:

Pop the bonnet,,,,remove the Black cover,,,the one that has the + sign on it. Bit tricky if you have long finger nails,,,just pull the tab outwards(its just behind the + sign) and lift the lid off. The fuse you need to replace is the one closest to the headlamp. Using your tweezers,,,yea you got a pair in your handbag,,,pull out that fuse and replace it with a new ....10a Fuse and I'll bet if you test your tailamps now you'll have them. Put cover back on and all Should be okay. Program Radio stations,,,grab some CD's and go cruising.:O

ok.. now i feel like a dumb blonde.. I'm not THAT much a potatoe

I've replaced the fuses (are there only meant to be two in the front.. cause theres four spaces) and the lights still dont work.

Actually i replaced both fuses.

So whats another plan guys... I still haven't tried re earthing the stereo.. cause i dont know how and i dont want to break the nice new stereo.

Sorry Nismogirl,,,,I didn't mean it like that,,,,,Okay so you only have 2 fuses under the Bonnet,,,were they blown?. If not we have to find where your Tailamp fuse is located. Your car is not like mine then,,,,maybe yours is in the Boot.

Guest Crazyfcuk

I had the same problem last week. fixed up my left hand light and found a male and a female plug next to my lights, connected them and the lights blew. (exactly the same lights as what has happened to urs).

In my case it was a fuse in the fuse box in the boot next to the battery, 2nd fuse in (should be a diagram on the fuse box explaining which is which) Its a 10 amp fuse (red i think) pull that out, if your having trouble there is a fuse remover in the fuse box inside the car to the right and below of the steering wheel. use that and check the fuses in the boot. I can almost guarantee that its in there cause i just fixed mine.

  • 6 months later...

Gee, what a phuqqin' surprise...

I had my radio installed dodgy brothers style and now I got no dash lights or working front running or rear running lights.

Brake lights and headlights work fine so daylight driving is ok.

I might have to print out this thread and pass it to my local electrician.

T.

Most likely cause of all those problems is the incorrect connection of the illumination wire (eg, shorting to ground) during stereo installation. Check fuses in boot next to the battery (R33). However, before you replace the blown fuse, be sure to rectify the wiring problem, otherwise the fuse will just keep blowing.

i'm with ylwgtr...

Check your dash dimmer switch - my dash lights went soon

after my car was complied. i just disconnected the wires from

the dimmer and joined them bypassing the dimmer all together.

It will stay on full brightness though without the dimmer of course.

Not sure if my tailights were affected as well at the time.

The two could be related if your fuses are all fine.

Definitely sounds like the head unit has been wired incorrectly. You'll probably find he has grounded the stereo to an interior light signal wire which shows as an earth wire until you actually switch the lights on, it then goes to +12v. I have seen this a few times before, a very common mistake when installing head units

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...