Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have an apexi power fc. My car ran fine before fitting the pfc but i wanted to be able to tune so on it went. The tuner tuned everything on the dyno and i picked up the car. It ran perfectly when I picked it up but it's tune slowly decreased over time until the point where it would barely idle and was running really rough. It has been back to the tuner several times to be re-tuned but just does the same thing. Last time the tune started to go bad the hand controller went to the startup screen (instead of the 8 channel monitoring screen i had it set to) started running worse and worse. Then the hand controller screen went blank and altho the car would drive it wouldnt idle at all. I had to keep the revs up whenever I clutched it just to get it back to the tuner. He then loaded the maps back onto it with datalogit and the screen lit up again and everything worked fine but an hour later, losing tune again!

My cousin also has a PFC tuned at the same workshop and he has none of the problems.

Anybody had this before?

Any help would be appreciated.

covered in the powerfc FAQ ->

See:

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...powerfc-faq.htm

Technical Issues

53. When I turn my car off I loose any changes on the PowerFC! Help!!

Re. The hand controller going to startup screen or blank. This can be caused by a loose connection, often between the hand controller and PFC. If this connection is loose, it won't cause above problems, however it could mean that another connection is slightly loose.

the hand controller going to the startup screen is a side affect of the original problem. as it cant save any changes each time you power the car off it defaults back to factory settings which is, it loads to the MONITOR, SETTING, ETC menu. usually when you are viewing a particular screen and power the car off the PFC saves where you are at and resumes when you start it up again. this info is stored in nvram on the FC.

if it cant write to this nvram then it just defaults to the main start screen each time. The PowerFC FAQ covers this problem and the likely causes

the hand controller going to the startup screen is a side affect of the original problem. as it cant save any changes each time you power the car off it defaults back to factory settings which is, it loads to the MONITOR, SETTING, ETC menu. usually when you are viewing a particular screen and power the car off the PFC saves where you are at and resumes when you start it up again. this info is stored in nvram on the FC.

if it cant write to this nvram then it just defaults to the main start screen each time. The PowerFC FAQ covers this problem and the likely causes

the thing is that it isnt doing it when the car is switched off. It will start and run great, then slowly over 30 mins of driving lose tune. Sometimes if you switch the car off after it has lost tune, it gets better again when you restart it (if its had time to cool down). Then over 30 mins or so it'll start to run like shit again and idle like a pig.

interesting so you can drive it and it progressively gets worse?

what battery voltage like when this is going on?

what does sensor SW reveal when you see problems? (anything in black)

yep, drives well at first. Light throttle, mid throttle accel and full power all nice and smooth. The it slowly gets worse until it's running like a busted arse and wont idle.

battery voltage around 13-14V

no sensors highlighted in black. ive tried turning the O2 sensor off. Didnt help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...