Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump Pipe Noise

GTSSS

By GTSSS,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTSSS Apprentice

GTSSS

Posted
Posted

I have a S2 R33 GTSt with a T3/T4 turbo. It is an internaly gated turbo with a hole in the Turbine housing and the swing valve in the dump pipe.

I recently had the dump pipe opened up and "high flowed", but now I get loud noise coming from the dump pipe which sounds like an open exhaust. the Dump was sealed with a gaskety and I'm pretty sure there are no leaks in it.

The noise does not sound like hissing from a leak, more like a large hole in the dump??

I also installed a Catco metal cat?

Has any one else had a problem with increased noise after installing a larger dump pipe, or if you have any ideas on how to get rid of this noise as it is quite loud when under load at low-mid revs.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128252-dump-pipe-noise/
Share on other sites
GTSSS Apprentice

GTSSS

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The waste gate swing valve for the internal waste gate is built into the turbo flange part of the dump pipe (similar to a VL turbo) and i have not found any aftermarket units that have this feature. Thus I had Liverpool exhaust "high flow" it by cutting off the plate that usually covers the swing valve section and moulding a 3 inch pipe around it to suite.

I have a wrapped the pipe with Thermotec all the way to the cat, so if the steel was too thin I guess this would somewhat compensate?

It seems like this is not a common problem So I will have to do a more thorough investigation...

As an demonstration

The dump pipe used to look like this with a 3" pipe welded onto the rear:

post-21789-1154320141.jpgpost-21789-1154320188.jpg

And now looks more like this

post-21789-1154320244.jpgpost-21789-1154320512.jpg

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128252-dump-pipe-noise/#findComment-2370210
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...