Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi

ive decided to give wiring my car up a go... it wont hurt... its a rb25det neo going into a r31... from the existing loom out of the r31 ive matched up all the wires that go from the computer to the rest of the car using a r34 pinout and other literature... but there a few plugs bugging me and need some stuff cleared up

there are two plugs almost identical to each other in the engine bay which dont go anywhere... they are black with about 12 or so pins each and they have some sort of grease in each terminal... do these go to each headlight as there is one on each side of the car... im guessing all of the accesory wiring is done through the computer aswell like the headlights ect...

the motor will still run without these plugged in wont it??? or is the headlight, defogger ect wires that go to the computer just signals to tell the motor to pick up the revs or something, sorta like the air cond... i couldnt imagine a defogger making that much of a drain on the motor... in that case i have about 1000wrms of amplifiers in the boot which would draw more power than all the other electrics in the car put together...

also what precautions should i take when first cranking the motor over... i dont have fuel to it yet i just want it to crank... is there a way i can prime the head before it cranks or i shouldnt worry about it just as long as it has oil in it... i turn the motor every now and then ive owned it for about 5 months but i dont think its affected the motor as you can sometimes get motors sitting in wreckers for longer than that???

oh and if someone could post up a close up of their battery from a r34 so i can organise which plugs go which terminals i would greatly appreciate it... its a bit of a shit fight there :cheers:

thanks for any help

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128340-stuck-with-r34-wiring/
Share on other sites

one of those plugs, on the afm side is the 12v+ for the injectors, it has spade terminals. You need to wire that up otherwise it wont work. Its a lights grey wire on the r33.

You also need to run an inline fuse, check the full 34 diagram to check what amps but I think its 10 or 15.

To check if the injectors will work switch you ign to on, then take one of the injector plugs off, should have a 12+v coming out of all the plugs, just earth the multi against the body dont try and use the negative on the plug as its pulsed thru the ecu. Its a light grey wire on the r33, but for the r34 neo it may be different. Its the wire thats the same colour on all the plugs anyway thats your +.

Have you also given the eccs relays constant 12+?

Those plugs are nothing to do with your headlights, thats on a completely seperate loom all together.

all my injectors are wired up already... huh???

the fuse would go in the 12volt constant wire hey...

my relays loop back into the computer so ill have have another look... for that... theres bugger all wires coming from the existing loom in the r31 only about 8 or so wires going out not including the auto trams plug... i hope i dont have to make new wires everywhere

i dont know what the hell you just said but yeh, of course they are all wired up thats not what I am saying. The 12+ for all 6 injectors runs out thru that plug your talking about, obviously on the 33/34 it plugs into another plug which give injectors 12+.

Just test them as I mentioned and see of you have a constant 12+ with ignition on.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I hadn't thought about the variable power steering assist. Presumably, it will always be the same level of assist as you get in an S14. The R32/3/4 are either helliishly heavy (at low speeds) if the solenoid is not powered at all, or hellishly too light (at high speed) if it is powered all the time. I presume that it is PWM controlled on those cars. I hadn't thought about the S cars not having variable assist. ugh. What crappy plebby cars they must be!  
    • Hmm yeah that is a good point. It looks like it'll just bolt in with no real issue besides maybe the bushings being different. My other concern was that 2 pin plug that I assume is used in some way to control the rack solenoid depending on the speed signal from the ecu. The DMAX rack doesn't even have that plug though so, don't think it'll matter. Might just order the rack and see how it goes. Will update this when I figure something out
    • I'd say it's a fair bet that the feed and return fluid lines will be in different enough spots that you would need to come up with a way to cut the originals short and adapt with new hard line adaption or braided teflon hoses or somesuch. But really, you have the car, you have the photos of the DMAX rack - you should be able to go out there and see for yourself whether they're in the same or different spots.
    • I've been doing some looking around and honestly was just considering throwing a new rack at it. I saw that the dmax silvia rack bolts up into the 33 with the silvia bushings but not sure if the high pressure lines will sit in the correct spot. I believe other version of the 33 rack are the same/similar to the racks that can be opened up without as much fuss so I assume the dmax rack would fit but any ideas?
    • I've never played with one, but I would expect that you are correct. That slot looks like it is intended to be used to unscrew the end, and the flats on the body would be better than grabbing it around the round bit with a pipe wrench. So, yeah, probably unscrews. You'll probably have to make a tool to drive in that slot.
×
×
  • Create New...