Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Just wondering if anyone is running either of these garrett turbos on there gtrs?

How do they perform ?

Does the larger GT2860R- 7s have issues with shuffle down low and how responsive are they? e.g when do they start pulling from and when do they get onto full boost ,say 1.4 - 1.6 bar.

Here is where im at,I have an engine thats built for a solid 700hp with fueling to match,running power fc as my computor.

My goal is high 300kws or even low 400kws at the hubs (hub dyno) would these turbos do this?Iv read that the GT2860R - 5s are good for 360hp apeice with almost factory response in spool rate and the GT2860R- 7s are rated to 400hp each , now thats on paper but what are you guys getting with these tubbies? A single is not an option for me at this stage and I want to keep with bolt on low mounts.

Any help will be greatly apreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128443-gt2860r-5-vs-gt2860r-7/
Share on other sites

The 707160-5 in a pair combination is good for 700hp at all fours as proven to me on a dyno. Brisbane tuning and turbo centre.

The -7 will come one boost slightly earlier and sharper. The -5 has a smooth deceptive power curve.

The -7 is basically just the N1 whereas the -5 is an upgrade to that turbo. People who I have sold these -5's to have been wrapped in their performance. Most of whom had come from such turbos as the -7 already.

The 707160-5 in a pair combination is good for 700hp at all fours as proven to me on a dyno. Brisbane tuning and turbo centre.

would love to know what else is done to this car....because that figure sounds a bit too high for those turbos. they're only rated at 350hp so how you can get 700awhp out of them would make for an interesting read.

Garrett publish the compressor & turbine maps for these things (as with most of their product). Have a look at www.turbobygarrett.com under the part numbers. You can quite reasonably relate airflow to engine hp. This is actually what people are dong when the quote a 350hp turbo or whatever. Anyway, have a look.

"The 707160-5 in a pair combination is good for 700hp at all fours as proven to me on a dyno. Brisbane tuning and turbo centre....People who I have sold these -5's to have been wrapped in their performance."

3li3 32

I'm guessing these -5s are on RB26, 700 @ all 4 WOW; what are the specs??? I thought somewhere around the mid to low 500s at the wheels was about it.

DVSGOD

I have -5s on my 89 R and they are great, they really start pulling hard at around 4K. I'm making 412rwhp on an internally standard combo...an excellent purchase

Cheers for your replys guys :no:

And as Steve _gts4 has rightfully pointed out the -5 is in fact the bigger of the two

I got my info from here http://www.turbos.co.nz/garretttake2.html but it seems they have the write up on each one round the wrong way

Edited by DVSGOD

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...