Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just looking at peoples opinions on polishs and wax, i currently use autoglym, but not really happy with the shine! im after i shine u can count how many teeth u got! what do u guys recommend? and something thats last im sicking polishing my car every second day

Edited by ali-turko
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/
Share on other sites

Internet is a wonderful place.

So many different forums for all kinds of things.

Anyway, here is something I came across on a barge forums.. I mean Soarer forum..

Hope you got some time and money on your hands..

But once you are done, you’ll be able to see that bit of chicken you got between your front teeth there..

http://soarercentral.com/sc-forum/messages...html?1153124760

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377482
Share on other sites

stop telling lies all of you!!!!

This is what i use, and ill follow up with some pics

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamois

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

Then leave that overnight

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

This is what it looks like. This is of my old 33, n was a few days after it was all done, will be doing it to the gtr soon.

img1174vi2.th.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377587
Share on other sites

stop telling lies all of you!!!!

This is what i use, and ill follow up with some pics

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamois

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

Then leave that overnight

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

This is what it looks like. This is of my old 33, n was a few days after it was all done, will be doing it to the gtr soon.

img1174vi2.th.jpg

here are the things wrong with that..

Firstly i give her a wash using Johsons & Johnsons baby shampoo, with a Meguirs Lambswool wash mit.

do not use human products on the car, is designd to moisture rise a baby, so it has alot of oil in it, which will sit on the surface of your car.. the mits are crap, all they do is scratch as they get cloggd with dirt

Then a chamois with a Meguirs Microfibre chamoi

Then a coat of Meguirs Paint Cleaner

its crap

Then a coat of Meguirs Deep Crystal Polish

its crap

Then leave that overnight

why?

Then a coat of Autoglym Synthetic Wax

why? you already used the meguiers, theres no point waxing over wax

Leave that sit overnight

Then a coat of Turtle Wax Carnuaba Wax

why? you already used the autoglym, theres no point waxing over wax

meguiers is shit house, autoglym is much better..

But i use zymol, german products.

http://www.zdoau.com/

it is the best, nothing comes even close..

edit: i could get a better finish that yours, cheaper, and quicker..

wash car.

clay car with 3M paint clay, its removes fallout and other things on the surface.

wax car using zymol cleaner wax ($60) it will fill small scratches and hide swirl marks, has %17 canuba, and will out gloss most other things of the same price ont he market and last longer..

You can get up to %90 canuba in the zymol range, obviously they get more expensive, but its the best..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377614
Share on other sites

all that stuff was recommended by Will Wax You...so dont ya think they'd know a thing or too about it? :no:

Also the idea of putting on dual layers is to give the efect of both the synthetic and natural waxes. If you look at show cars, they dont just have one layer, and one type of wax, they use mutliple layers of differing types.

Reason u let them dry is so they set, or you dont bring out their true qualities if you just do them back to back.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2377891
Share on other sites

all that stuff was recommended by Will Wax You...so dont ya think they'd know a thing or too about it? :laugh:

Also the idea of putting on dual layers is to give the efect of both the synthetic and natural waxes. If you look at show cars, they dont just have one layer, and one type of wax, they use mutliple layers of differing types.

Reason u let them dry is so they set, or you dont bring out their true qualities if you just do them back to back.

no, show cars use natural wax;s with high canuba to give it taht mega gloss, there is no point in waxing over wax, it wont make a difference..

and dont let it dry, thats when you scratch the paint taking it off. i know the techwax is easier to take off dry, but, i dont like it as it gives nasty streaks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2378702
Share on other sites

Well - i just used Meguiars Mirror Glaze Swilrl Remover 2.0

And I still have swirls............

Buggger !

My experience with Meguiares is this:

Dark Blue car with bad swirls...

Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner : to remove old waxes and buildup. (run fingers over paint work..is it rough? buildup!)

Then I used the Swirl Remover... it got alot of swirls out, but not all...

Then I followed up with the hi-tech yellow wax.

It looked alot better!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2380146
Share on other sites

its not "build up" its fall out, its shit in the air that lands and sits on your car...

If you park at a trainstation youll have rail dust all over your car.

the best way is to clay your car..

also, the swirl remover dosnt remove them, it just hides them, thats why after afew washes they are back,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2380820
Share on other sites

this is a good site as to why you would clay a car, and how

http://www.autogeek.net/megovclay.html

its about $38 for the kit at most auto one/Peps auto etc shops

you buy the kit with a meguirs spray that lubes the clay bar and the small clay bar itself

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128481-polisheswax/#findComment-2381119
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...