Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/
Share on other sites

Internally......different coils to a series one. turbo has a plastc compressor wheel (series one has a metal one), both have ceramic exhaust wheel. Engine is the same and so is the gearbox etc.

Or if you mean internally as in Dash etc, the S2 has a nicer looking airbag steering wheel, dash is the same but surround is slightly different (the platic is more textured and the coin holder on the right of the steering wheel is gone).

I am sure there is some more but cant think of it all right now. I think that the S2 is worth the extra $$ for the updated front end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2379252
Share on other sites

i imported a stock clean R33 series 1 5spd turbo sedan for $11500 inc on road costs.

I would expect you would pay upwards of $14K on the road for a clean series 2 5spd turbo sedan.

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2380568
Share on other sites

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Checking the jap auction sites, the price they go for would making $15K a reasonable figure for one. If you are buying locally from a yard or privately, you will pay more.

I bought mine through autoworx, cost me 260,000yen direct from the auctions. I didnt enquire about Series 2 turbo manual sedans as I didnt want one, but surely they would only be $3-4K more than a series 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2385589
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Paul from Autoworx wrote a R33 Skyline buyers guide which covers how to tell the difference between a Series 1 and Series II. Its free - I think you just have to sign up to the email newsletter to get the info. Heres the link http://www.autoworx.com.au/mail.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453165
Share on other sites

Series one is better :P

Series II has different lights and a bit of a squarer front (to tell yo uthe truth its down to personal preference but i've never been a fan of the 2)

The series II has the airbags from memory.

Tell him to buy mine Ben :blink: its not a four door but what the heck - throw on some roof racks n store the kids up there :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453205
Share on other sites

HAHA thx Lauren

he bought a car. Ended up buying off someone from here, i cant remember who though.

Its a white SII done 80,000 km, nearly dead stock besides bigger front lip and 17's. he paid $16500. Its very tidy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2455041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ironically the GTT was quite reliable in the 7 years of ownership. From memory I've only had to replace a radiator and coilpacks out of inconvenience 
    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
×
×
  • Create New...