Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 81
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

there is no shortage of 34's around melb that have been complianced and sold with the xenon h/lights, most import dealers dont have them changed purposely - buyer gets nicer headlights / dealer gets more money - "that doesnt make it right" of course :D

my 2sense!

  • 3 weeks later...

Hmm.. Altho Xenon lights look nice the thing I am wondring is why would you want to convert/buy your headlights anyway?

I mean all the prices I hear floating around is a lot of money.. and granted you may have it sitting there doing nothing... But the biggest price I heard so far was $1200 ...now I'm sure I could find an intercooler for that price.. or better yet.. 2 new rear tyre's :P

My point is.. or question rather is.. Why? Whats the big deal? cant you go to auto barn and just buy some white globes? or just get the 'ole 50% extra light ones.. I mean lights light.. at the end of the day, if you can see the road, thats all that really matters..

but thats just my opinion :(

Well another way to look at is is

1200 split down would look like this..

$600.oo = New Tyres

$165.00 = Fine Associated with defect notice after cops seeing bald rear tyres

$435.oo = fixing everything else they *** you over for :D

all up = $1200.oo

But still.. I no a guy with a second hand HKS intercooler for sale @ $1190.oo ...and it's only done 2 drag races.. it's been imported from Japan.. good quality.. I'd rather that than headlights :(

I don't doubt your money spending skills.. I have some my self..

But hey.. each to their own in regards to what they do to their car... THATS why the term 'rice' is floating around today.. simply because.. each to their own :(

*Not implying these Xenon lights are ricey.. * (protecting my self from the flame's) :D

xenons literally turns night into day :D

$1200 is a lot of money and i do see your point of view. personally i would dispose of that money in other ways but each to their own...

btw, i was lucky enough to have the xenons kept in the car from stock and after compliancing and in no way did the xenon's sway my decision to buy the car or not :D

DIY, shop around, heckle / bargain a little - or get your g/f to do it, they love it!

Eg. Recently spent $40 on an oil change, including the oil filter and tools - synthetic 10w40 hi-perf. oil, valvoline filter, wrench, change pan etc.

Also, when you are constantly living on "stuff all money" - it makes it easier to get stuff cheap - be nice to people and do favours helps also!!!

mostly obvious stuff but it works :)

  • 4 months later...

I know its an old thread but I just read it for the firs time.

I would love xenons for my r33 but the conversion kits you can buy just wouldnt be the same as te factory ones cos on the r33 the headlight reflectors are different for the xenon models, and im not to sure about the lenses, they may be glass because of the heat that xenons produce cos the factory halogen ones are just polycarbonate..

I would love a set of factory xenons for my r33 ..

  • 3 months later...

Seems to me the driving emotion is to have these bcos they are cool or throw more light. H4's for the 33 come in different colours and wattages so thats easy, and a lot cheaper.

On the more light issue, well I used to rally, and big Cibie Oscar plus with 150W globes was the answer, but I wouldnt put them on a skyline. If you need more light then up your wattage on the high beams only and don't dazzle the oncoming traffic on low beam. That is almost as completely wank as the HSV and WRX owners with their foggies and worthy of a fine if the donut kings can unweld themselves from their patrol cars seats.

Don't rice for the sake of it and blowing cash on crap, especially if it is going to cause discomfort and danger to other road users.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...