Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey paul am in the same boat as you.

As far as i can see the fluid in the resorvoir is similar to atf but its nissan spec and it is yellow when new. The diff oil needs an Lsd oil as it is the same as a mech lsd (clutchs etc) only the pump controls how much preload is applied to the sidegears which gives the Lsd effect. the 2 hydraulic actuators sit on each side of the diff.

I'm tearing my hair out trying to get this system working as it should be a really good unit nice and strong too!

the system behaves like when a mech LSD is worn out by open wheeling, particularly the drivers side wheel. Mine will pull dual wheel burnouts but when you keep going it ends up slipping down the road grrrrrrr!

Im close to just swapping over for a nice tight mech LSD but I'll keep you updated.

Does your a-LSD light come on with the car turned to on but not started? only my slip light comes on and ive never had any of them come on when I've been driving.

cheers.

  • Replies 68
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

when i turn my car to ON (without starting) all my lights come on.

both a-lsd and slip come on. they should to indicate the lights are working and diag is OK. if you dont have a-lsd light come on at post diag then it could be the light is dead, and it may be failing mid flight for you, hence the single spinning ?

if slip doesnt come on when you are loosing traction the computer isnt doing its job and turning the pump on.

i suspect in your case your A-lSD is failing each time at start up and the a-lsd light is dead as well.

do you have the factory ecu or an aftermarket ecu ?

yeah man all factory ECU

I'm going to check that the globe isn't blown..... one day. I'd really love to get this thing working but I'm seriously thinking about getting an aftermarket unit single spinning is driving me nuts.

I'm a bit worried that the problem may be bigger than I think. The slip light should come on regardless whether the A-LSD does as it comes on at startup... which may mean that the system thinks its working but actually isn't so it could be that the internal clutches are kaput or it could just be that it wants to wreck my brain grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!

IF ANYONE IS READING THIS AND HAS OR KNOWS SOMEONE WITH SERVICE MANUAL FOR R33 GTR THAT CONTAINS PAGES FOR FINAL DRIVE ACTIVE LSD SYSTEM PLEASE LET US KNOW :D

thanks for getting back to me man cheers.

Edited by mattymagoo22

the service manuls don't cover the alsd vspec system

ive already look in r32 r33 and r34 gtr and normal manuals, no mention.

they guys who opened up my diff said it didnt need shimming or any mech fixing to be done, he said the internals were perfect. im going to get my hydraulic line braided so its a new line and i can put a pressure signal on it

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeap, not as doorty as ITB's, but alot more doorty than before, induction sound great when I'm up it 馃
    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • I think you know exactly who I mean.
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
  • Create New...