Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A genuine front bar won't cost that much. with $3k only you would have a genuine strong front bar, that would be sufficient enough for front impact crash rating. Not a cheap fibreglass copy for $650 that might get you killed or leave you with $10k repair bill on your car, as these cheap copies are only as strong as paper in the event of an accident.

So, I'm saving for a genuine one. Maybe I'll get that $1800 genuine veilside front bar. Whole kit with side skirts shouldn't cost more than $6k. The E1 style is not bad. Looks like it's using the standard blinkers as well.

hr33_e1_f.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-243608
Share on other sites

Originally posted by GTR-80Y

I might be willing to part with mine....i've got the full C-I kit minus the flares, I also seem to have the GTR CE-I rear wing instead of the GTS C-I one. Front bar needs a bit of work tho.

GTR-B0Y, any pics of your front bar?

What do u mean the front bar needs work? is it damaged, how bad is the damage?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-245113
Share on other sites

are the legit ones poly eurathane or carbon fibre? if its carbon then jus go the fakes man, jus make sure the ones you get have a wire mesh underlay (othawise they jus snap and crumble)

the bomex kit i got on my old 180 was 50% aluminum 50% poly eurathane... so basically it made it look good and as solid as stock, maybe veilside do the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-245858
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rs73

A genuine front bar won't cost that much. with $3k only you would have a genuine strong front bar, that would be sufficient enough for front impact crash rating. Not a cheap fibreglass copy for $650 that might get you killed or leave you with $10k repair bill on your car, as these cheap copies are only as strong as paper in the event of an accident.  

i always thought that the strength was in the metal reinforcing bumper that your bumper skin sits on, surely the strength of your body kit doesnt matter at all aside from the fact that scrapes may damage some more than others..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-246467
Share on other sites

yeah in case of an accident of that proportion the chassis is the only thing tha stops you from becomign a sardine... the panels don't have much to do with it.

Getting an original helps when you get into a minor accident... (like the one I jus had where sum kant backed into my bumper) all that happens is that your paint cracks and you get a scuff mark das all... wheras if you had a fibreglass one you'd have a massive crack and you'd have to do some major patching up which costs as much as the panel.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-246877
Share on other sites

HEY all!! if you live in Sydney and want ANY and i mean Any bodykit, parts, body repair on ya car, mods, ANYTHING i know the place to get it done!

VISION AUTO SMASH REPAIRS

29-31 Carlotta Street

Artarmon NSW 2064

ph: 9436 1299

Ask for Jerry

These guys r soooooooooo good!! i got my Veil Side rims from them!! i would of got the body kit but dont have the money!

They can get ANY body kit you want, they can do ANY mod you want and they can repair ya car if u have crashed it... if i trusted these guys with my car than i trust em with anything!!

give me a pm if you need to know any more info on em!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-246990
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Guest Qu!CkS!LveR

Dont know if this is of any help, may be a bit late but BODYFORM is Lansvale do Veilside kits. Dont know the price but the work is very good. Seen a blue R33 there that had the kit put on and it looked pretty good. Certainly worth a look if you are interested in the Veilside bodykit.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12934-veilside/#findComment-286237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...