Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Item: Tomei Pon Cams - Series II, R33, cam angle is 256 degrees with 8.50 lift

Location: Sydney

Item Condition: Brand new - Never used (still in box) opened for attempted install

Reason for Selling: They are not suitable for my car

Price and Payment Conditions: $850

Contact Details: PM if interested :)

Please note: These cams are only suited to a series 2, rb25, sept 97 onwards!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129505-tomei-poncams-750-ono/
Share on other sites

Do these come with the lifters required ?

do you have any pics ?

Thanks =)

Item: Tomei Pon Cams - Series II, R33, cam angle is 256 degrees with 8.50 lift

Location: Sydney

Item Condition: Brand new - Never used (still in box) opened for attempted install

Reason for Selling: They are not suitable for my car

Price and Payment Conditions: $850

Contact Details: PM if interested :P

Please note: These cams are only suited to a series 2, rb25, sept 97 onwards!

hey i got a series 1.5. it defintly has the series 2 motor & turbo so these will fit right? would u sell for $800 delivered to brisbane? let me know

hey i got a series 1.5. it defintly has the series 2 motor & turbo so these will fit right? would u sell for $800 delivered to brisbane? let me know

my understanding is that the 1.5 does not have the later model rb25... not sure how you'd find out! Maybe post it somewhere?!

i bought a rb25 heat with vct how can i tell what series it is ? all i got was the head and cams no covers or manifolds

no idea dude! maybe post it in the forced induction section?!

So not to waste time for you moanie pie,

People these cams can only be fitted to a RB25 built from sept 97, i have a 97 S2 aswell but was built in march and these don't fit, already did the research. Ohh and if your wondering what the diff is, its something to do with the crank angle senor or something like that. Other wise i would've snapped these up myself.

  • 2 weeks later...
So not to waste time for you moanie pie,

People these cams can only be fitted to a RB25 built from sept 97, i have a 97 S2 aswell but was built in march and these don't fit, already did the research. Ohh and if your wondering what the diff is, its something to do with the crank angle senor or something like that. Other wise i would've snapped these up myself.

Would fit mine then, but i dont know enough about them to consider them as a worthwhile investment.

Would fit mine then, but i dont know enough about them to consider them as a worthwhile investment.

Phil, great upgrade if you ask me. Do yourself a favor and talk to craved about these, he'll be able to tell you anything you wanna know.

So if you have an S2 R33 pre 97 you would need to change the crank angle sensor, correct?

The nengun website says these will suit an S2 dosen't mention the year...

It does say on the Nengun wesite:

ECR33: 1st;1993.8 - 2nd;1997.9 - (changed crank angle sensor)

And a description on the cams:

Generally, engine tuning is to modify the torque characteristic of engine by changing cam duration timing and height of the cam lift, so as to gaining maximum torque and horse power. However, when tuning the engine strictly, it should be carried out with the idea of securing effective area of the valve not only by duration timing and height of the cam lift, but also by through improvement of its intake efficiency. High valve lift allows huge amount of air to flow in, yet it mechanically damages the system and gains friction loss. Also, wide cam duration will deriver great power at high RPM, but it gives rough engine character at low RPM too. Tomei have worked to get an ideal well-balanced profile of camshaft and succeeded to give it 1.3 to 1.5 times more effective area than regular camshafts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...