Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hiya guys,

I've got baked on window stains all over the rear window... it seems like all my previous imports have had this sorta stuff on their windows.. previously a razor blade and polish was all that was needed to remove it, but this one's a real stubborn bugger.

So how do i get rid of it?

Thanks heaps

Howie

Update ... problem solved

Before

windowgunk.jpg

After

after2.jpg

Edited by Howie

You need to use a descaler. Its hard water stains. You could try vinegar in some water. I would use the real stuff, Apple Cidar Vinegar. The stuff with brown floaty bits :P

Dilute in water and use on the windows. Don't drip it on paint work.

Edited by StageaGirl

Thanks SG. I'm beginning to think it's oxidized onto the windows, i'll need something with a bit of cutting power.... but i'll give vinegar a go.

Might have to get a detailer with an orbital buffer to have a go at it.

It's on the outside, rather than the inside so it's unlikely to be glue.

But i'll ask the professionals... i've seen this sort of oxidization on a soarer that we imported, it took a razor blade and several days to remove it completely, but this is far worse that that.

Interesting post I found on meguires online forum.

Glass polishing
Dont try this if you are not confident about your skills ... my car windows have acid rain i cant get rid of it... i try white vinegar, kerosene, windex, cigar ashes with no result... so after getting nutz (some may say what i do is crazy) i decide to go hard with this.

I use W-8000 yellow foam pad with Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner on a rotary buffer at medium low speed and it works well. But I was curious so i try something with more bite and use Compound Power Cleaner and it works magic.

Next time try this by hand with a piece of terry cloth or by machine with a W=7006 foam cutting pad.

#4 Heavy Cut Cleaner

product_m04.gif

It will work so much better than either of the two product you tried because of the type of diminishing abrasive this product uses. Next time you're around a bottle of #4 Heavy Cut Cleaner, shake up the bottle and pour a little into your fingers and then rub your fingers back and forth. You will easily feel the diminishing abrasives, (if you continue to rub your fingers together your will feel the diminishing abrasives breakdown and disappear).

Now, feel any of the products in the 80's series, such as the #84 Compound Power Cleaner in the same way and it will feel like you're rubbing a soft, smooth hand lotion between your fingers.

The difference is the 80's series uses microscopic diminishing abrasives while the traditional Mirror Glaze products use for lack of a better term, macroscopic diminishing abrasives.

It is this larger size diminishing abrasive particle that cuts, or slices through the film that has built up on the surface of your glass and polishes it off.

Liquid glass cleaners don't offer this polishing effect. When ever I detail a customers car, I'll almost always machine polish their glass with this system so that the glass is a glossy and shiny as the paint. When you do this and you've detailed the car correctly, the finished look jumps out at you! because everything on the car is gleaming.

In Oregon and Washington, I ran into a lot of people with horrendous water spots on their glass, as such, I have a lot of experience polishing glass.

Mike

Original Link

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showt...p;threadid=4930

Sounds good! I might give this a go. :dry:

You should check out that thread, the forum members decided to use it all over their bathroom and bedroom windows.. the results look great! lol

Edited by Howie

Update. Meguires forum was right.

Meguires Heavy Cut Cleaner (or Meguires Diamond Cut Polish) + a terry cloth + lots of elbow work will do the trick. And it also works on faded headlights for the R34 making them really crystal looking.

Mad082:

have you tried using some steel wool? works ok, but don't go overboard or you will scratch the glass. otherwise 1 of those green scouring pads.

Btw, the gentleman who distributed meguires suggested you do not try using a scouring pad or steel wool on glass, that is a huge no no. You definately need a Diminishing Abrasive, one that breaks down to a polish after it cuts or you end up with scratches that can't be removed.

Edited by Howie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...