Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Quick question on the gates timing belt sold for the skylines, the blue coloured one. I know a lot of people are using this product out there.

I recently changed my timing belt to the gates brand and now have a slight humming sound coming from the belt at low rpm or idle.

The mechanic did explain that if the belts are tensioned too tight that they will hum, but as I was with him while the work was being done I don't believe that the belt was over tensioned. We actually went to a lot of trouble in getting the right tension. The old though was worn and very loose.

Anyway, has anyone had the same experience using the gates belt. Does it settle in and the noise go away?? Is that the way they are?? Or should I go to the trouble and losen the belt off a touch and see what happens??

Any ideas?? I would be greatful.

Regards,

Paul.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129688-gates-timing-belt-r33/
Share on other sites

I got one of these; as do quite a lot of owners on this forum - the humming noise is normal from what everyone says. It's not a constant hum more like an intermitant hum that happens every "cycle"

yep can vouch for that happens to me same belt

Thanks Guys,

Appreciate the comments, but has anyone actually tried adjusting the belt again to see if the noise improves?? Or goes away.

Also for those of you mechanically minded did anyone notice how the belt fit onto the cam gears. Did the belt sit flush into the gears or was there a bit of play.

The old belt that had years of wear had a fair bit of play and the new one while a lot beter still has slight play.

I'm thinking that worn cam gears could be a factor in the noise.

Any thoughts.

Paul.

I did one of these in my 33gtr and had the same problem. I readjusted the belt three times in total as the first time I think it was a little tight, and it did quieten down as I loosened it off, though I went too loose one of the times just to see if the noise went away, it did'nt.

I have had it in for about 5000kms and it is pretty much gone now, though you can still hear it if you are looking for it. Only after the engine is at running temp of course.

hope that this is helpful.

Oh, forgot to mention I did cams a adjustable gears at the same time, so the belt fit pretty snug in the gear teeth, and the drive gear was not worn. If your gears are worn it is pretty easy to tell by the lip as the belt dose not cover the complete gear and only weres on about 95% of the face of the tooth.

Edited by mark morris

Thanks for the info, really appreciate it.

Pity you experimented 3 times in getting things right.

I think I will wait until I reach 5000k's before tackling the belt again, and if I do I will get the gears changed as well, therefore I make the job worth while.

Paul.

Hi All,

Quick question on the gates timing belt sold for the skylines, the blue coloured one. I know a lot of people are using this product out there.

I recently changed my timing belt to the gates brand and now have a slight humming sound coming from the belt at low rpm or idle.

The mechanic did explain that if the belts are tensioned too tight that they will hum, but as I was with him while the work was being done I don't believe that the belt was over tensioned. We actually went to a lot of trouble in getting the right tension. The old though was worn and very loose.

Anyway, has anyone had the same experience using the gates belt. Does it settle in and the noise go away?? Is that the way they are?? Or should I go to the trouble and losen the belt off a touch and see what happens??

Any ideas?? I would be greatful.

Regards,

Paul.

had the same problem..on close inspection of belt found small threads that bridged belt teeth causing humming sound when running(poor quality) ..these belts are crap imo ..nothing wrong with genuine part price or quality... i fixed mine by throwing it in the bin and using a genuine belt

The blue gates belts promoting tripple the strength of stock. They are crap chuck it in the bin get yourself one of these babys Nissan 13028-20P25 will fix all your problems. Save yourself embaresment at the lights mate.

why is it better than the other if its just a stockie? what part number does this get you then 13028-20P10?

thanks

Dont know mate. Atleast its quiet! That gets you the new one it must be marked in the catalog. just red tape i guess.

  • 4 months later...
How much is the genuine nissan belt??

I just ordered gen nissan one - $60!!! w00t!!!

I actually asked on the 100k service thread if anyone could tell me why I should buy an aftermarket belt as opposed to gen one but no real responses..... I was gonna get a Gates or Nismo belt but couldn't justify nearly $400 for the Nismo one..... Is there any real difference btwn gen and aftermarket???

There's nothing wrong with the standard Nissan timing belt - dead quiet at idle and has a 100,000k change interval, I got mine for $85.00 off eBay, Nissan sell them for around the same.

That being said, my R33 had a very annoying whirring at low revs when I first bought it, and it apparently had a new, genuine Nissan timing belt.

I eventually took it to Nissan and had them replace all the belts and tensioner/idler pulleys as part of a major service...It turned that the tensioner bolt was slightly bent which was causing most of the 'hum' or whirring at idle, it's perfect now - might want to check this out if you're having this problem.

Awwww, $60 directly from Nissan?!

....damn ebay (or damn my stupidity for assuming Nissan would be pricier, they usually are!!) :P

Yeah - direct from my local nissan..... even with the SAU discount Lincorp still wanted $94 so it really does pay to ring around and apply a little pressure!!! I think it depends on the parts..... sometimes nissan is more exy..... sometimes not!!!

I was quoted $220 for a belt..... hmmmmm..... dunno if he thought I was just a dumb chick or what but you''ve only paid $20 (or so) more than me so I wouldn't stress.....

  • 3 months later...

Hi all..

throw your Gates away! I put one in after rebuilding my engine myself. I made sure my belt was not too tight and it still makes the whinning noise.... It doesn't matter what tension you put on these belts, most of the time, you will experience this humming with these belts...

I've done 25,000kms on this rebuilt engine and it still humms.. I've loosened the tension twice with no improvement.

Although the general rule of thumb would tell you that tightening a belt too much can make it whine, this is not the case with these belts.

If anyone trys to tell you that your whinning is because your Gates timing belt is too tight, then they obviously have never used one!

Just my 2 cents... I've since put in a Greddy belt and it's quiet as... very happy... only $114 too!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...