Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 422
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If you strap it loose and let the tyres up on the front rollers,

you will get a higher reading:), this trick has been proven many times

in dyno comps before here and interstate. You can apparently also overspeed the dyno by getting it

up on the front roller and let it wheelsping hard on it and get a fudged figure aswell with big power cars

I'm confused, why would you get more traction on the front roller, there is more surface area when you car

is on both rollers! the same reason you tyres get a lot hotter! they are actually touching something!

-The rear rollers arn't even connected to the front rollers, so how is there any extra traction? traction is simple, there is a coefficient of friction between the tyre and the roller, and a normal force on the tyre, times these together gives your frictional force. For simplicity, say the normal forces from front and rear rollers on the tyre are the same, as the front roller is the only one that is driven (or retarded by the retarders) friction will be halved compared to having the tyre ride up onto the front roller only as there is only the one normal force on the front rollers. (halving the traction is not exactly correct but good enough for the example)

-A dyno just measures how fast you accelerate the rollers, it knows the inertia of the rollers, factoring in what ramp rate is used then it can calculate power. I'm not sure how having a tyre spin on the roller will actually make the roller "overspeed" but that is not possible. I mean going by this does it mean if I wheel spin on the road I will move faster then if I was not wheel spinning? Don't think so.

Interesting...I just had my car dyno'd today and made 168.5RWKW on a 32 RB20DET with 14psi, fuel pump, with around 11.5 AFR etc etc usual mods, and it seems around the money for what the car has done to it. And yeah i have also heard that shauns dyno does tend to read lower figures in general than some other dynos but as people keep on saying it is easy to fudge the figures.

my 2c.

Edited by R32Abuser

has anyone considered that Hitek dosent fudge figures, but John does know how to strap you car on properly.

i know you all love shaun, but maybe he doesnt know any different so he keeps doing the same thing wrong.

and whoever said he can tune PFC cars quicker with a hand controller then with the laptop.

I cant see how thats possible..

yes he's a nice guy, But at the end of the day your not taking the car to your mates place, your taking it to a professional to get it tuned to its optimal performance and fuel economy throughout the whole rev range.

has anyone considered that Hitek dosent fudge figures, but John does know how to strap you car on properly.

i know you all love shaun, but maybe he doesnt know any different so he keeps doing the same thing wrong.

and whoever said he can tune PFC cars quicker with a hand controller then with the laptop.

I cant see how thats possible..

yes he's a nice guy, But at the end of the day your not taking the car to your mates place, your taking it to a professional to get it tuned to its optimal performance and fuel economy throughout the whole rev range.

no one said they fudge figures. Im sure their is a correct and incorrect way to strap a car on, and as long as my car doesnt come flying off im fine with it.

I said before shaun used to prefer using the hc over the lappie, but i havent spoken to him since he aquired the datalogit. Its all personal preference.

Shaun is a professional in what i want done with my car. Im not a dyno whore. I take my car to shaun for a quick tune - a quick tune.

Its not on the rollers for as long as u say "to get the tyres sticky" Its on their long enough to check afrs, and give it a quick going over. If i wanted more id ask for it. Everytime ive come back from a tune with Shaun the car has felt great, and used less petrol, and knock was minimal.

Im happy. So are you. everyone wins.

I use Shaun because yeh he's a nice guy and gives you the time of day, he's local, many mates use him, and he has a proven record(not that others don't) You will NEVER see any of my cars a Tillbrooks, because i have heard way too many stories about them, and as for all the Keen brothers, ATS i would go too, and the others, well Bill is getting better i hear!

Besides i'd rather my car be tuned safe and at a lower reading than a tuner "tweak" a dyno to make me think he's done a great job so i return to them!

But hey thats my 2c, take it or leave it, i'm not fussed!

Edited by Deluxe

Darren,

Yep supermod it is. An Admin gave myself and 2 others supermod rights that gives us mod abilities in all sections of the forum instead of just the given sections.

Will come in handy as in the past late at night I've came across a few spammers etc in other sections that I haven't been able to do a thing about.

------

I've always gone to Shaun as I've known him since he was rubbing shoulders back at RPM with Tim and Ivan.

He does good by me, never charged me the earth and has a solid track record with a handfull of std RB's pushing 300rwkw and holding together.

I'm aware the dyno days do show a few inconsistent readouts but that honestly doesn't bother me as I've had my car on Shauns dyno many times prior and it always reads the same. I haven't had it on at a dyno day so I have no idea if it would read the same then; possibly not as its usually strapped down by some one different.

Thats all that really matters to me. :P

It would be interesting to hold the next dyno day at Hitek dyno.

Why not.. :D

my car will be going to shaun once i get my pfc/hi flow. i'll be chasing your numbers darren. hehe but as with everything, price is always a factor despite the 'you get what you pay for' moto. so in saying that, how much does boostworx charge usually...

my car will be going to shaun once i get my pfc/hi flow. i'll be chasing your numbers darren. hehe but as with everything, price is always a factor despite the 'you get what you pay for' moto. so in saying that, how much does boostworx charge usually...

forgive me if im wrong from memory $160 for a full tune and runs until he is happy

my car will be going to shaun once i get my pfc/hi flow.

Hmmmm, This means you wanna keep it now then Duc, I like what i hear! as for how much for the full re-tune is i think it MAX $400 or $450, but prob won't even be that much, we will go see him when you get your goodies! :P

Hmmmm, This means you wanna keep it now then Duc, I like what i hear! as for how much for the full re-tune is i think it MAX $400 or $450, but prob won't even be that much, we will go see him when you get your goodies! :)

Yeah mate. Ive worked out the numbers and if I 'upgraded' it would leave me living off rice and soy sauce for a few months+years which I dont want to do. That and the fact that at the state the current market is in, my 'line wont be worth much thus rather keep it. I want to drift it someday as well, hehehehe. Care to join me on that venture...?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...