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Adam : I'll try and find an open Workshop tomorrow and get a compression test done anyway - this is really frustrating. All of the valves looked OK when the head was off. Do you need to do any more than a visual check on the valves?

CMS : I phoned Nissan and they don't want anything to do with my car :D It's imported...They actually referred me to a place in Wooloongabba :confused:

If I can find somewhere open this weekend that's open I might try and get the knock sensor checked out. That is provided the Ignition module test doesn't give positive results...

PS - Since I've run the ECU Diagnostic, my HICAS light doesn't come on after 5 minutes of idling (which it used to do frequently). Since then I've had 4 or 5 runs idling for 5-10 minutes with no HICAS light :) - wierd...

Michael

How do I check if the valve shafts are bent???

I'm going to guess that the head needs to come off again, but now that I've got a good idea of how it's done (and where all of the f&*k!ng finnicy bits are), it shouldn't be too difficult (as long as I get an engine crane & a 10 mm ratchet spanner :P - a direct reference to those two screws at the back of the head supporting the brackets for the turbo's water line)

Michael

  • 1 month later...

HOORAY! :O

I Got sick of all the F**king about, so I took it to Gavin Woods. Now I know that the problem is with the only gasket I didn't replace when I changed the head gasket! - the intake manifold to head gasket! Causing a huge vaccum leak in cyl 6...

Parts have arrived from Nissan, so now I guess I'll see how goes *fingers crossed*

:shake: :shake: :shake:

46n2

PS - Also got my new pads put in while I was there! RB74 are awesome!

Thanks Adam,

It has been a giant pain in the :shake: for so long... I haven't got the gasket in yet, but I'm going to organise it soon. I'm going to take it into them to do, because it'll take them 4 hours, and me at least 8 :D

Sorry to hear that you're having dramas... Try a copper gasket, they don't cost too much, but on the down side I think you'll need to get your head and block machined... Keep me posted...

46n2

I did after 20 - 30 minutes of running, but I haven't done the 100K re-tension yet. Maybe I should do that tonight... But the retension seemed to fix my leaking coolant problem when it first occurred after putting the head back on... Good Luck

Summary: Order to check things in (or at least the order I should have followed)...

1. Plugs

2. Coils (note - even if resistance is OK they can still spark internally and cause problems. I don't know how to check for this though)

3. Ignition module (borrow someone's healthy one - but be warned - it's fragile)

4. Injectors

5. Gaskets (Intake - both to the head from the manifold, and the collector box to the runners)

6. Head Gasket

And if all else fails, or you want to know straight away, take it to a professional with experience with your model Skyline :D

I'll post (hopefully) final results once the new intake gasket is in.

46n2

I have an issue of my car misfiring while on boost.

The plugs are new'ish and look fine. The car isn't running lean as all the plugs are blackish.. gapped to 0.78mm too.

Coil packs are all fine, had them disconnected from the plug and they're all making sparks..

I also have a "psssssst" noice coming from near the intake manifold while idling and was wondering if that's normal and if it could affect the misfiring on boost issue.

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The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? 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