Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well its not very long admittedly but have you ever put your hand on it after having been for a drive.yes the air is going thru very quickly but your still getting an awful lot of heat soak in there.same as your airbox does & its not as close to that damn hot turbo as the inlet pipe.besides for the little cost involved why not every few degrees colder the air is the better.

cheers

warrick

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest saiyaman

howdy peoples, Ive been reading your posts....... Im sure that the partition would help with temperatures from the engine but through the tests that you guys have done it looks like the most benefits came when you reached certain speeds and that's when the air was the coldest..... so what I mean is if you could force more air into the box or pod at lower speeds in the first place then wouldn't that give you the most gains?? has anyone tried making a larger feed where the air first enters and testing what kind of difference that makes....I looked at the bottom of my bumper and the inlet is tiny, what do you guys think?

Originally posted by warick

the car just seemed that much more responsive & stronger, if that makes sense?

It makes perfect sense now :D

To all those people with a stock air box and thinking about ditching it for a pod, dont!!

I initially had the stock box on with crap filter. I then upgraded to a pod (out of peer pressure really) and was impressed with the performance gains at high revs. I was at Autobarn on the weekend and decided that I'd give the panel a shot just to get some personal closure on the issue.

After driving the car round all day with the new panel filter in I cannot understand how I put up with the pod for so long. The car gets-up-and-gos heaps better. The best way to describe it is to have a look at the boost gauge. The needle jumps when you push the throttle, before it was a little limp. A lot more throttle response :uh-huh: and out performs the pod at every rev!

Smoother, quieter, stronger application of power... How can anyone argue?!?!

Moral of the story: Pods are a complete waste of money without CAI & induction noise is bloody annoying!

You can buy heat proof cold air box foam from Unique Auto Sports. It comes with a template drawn on it so all you have to do is cut it out and attatch it. Its $90 and comes with a tube of Silicon to get perfect seals round your turbo piping and a rubber strip for along the top to cushion it up against the hood.

You may be able to source the foam yourself...its black/grey with silver foil type stuff on one side. I bought it but didnt ever get round to fitting it and ended up selling my car when I came O/S.

I would have expected a good result too as I had 198kw/atw with only a little more boost, full exhaust (turbo back) and a K&N. That cold air was much needed!

I've have just upgraded my K&N panel (now for sale if anyone interested) to an Apexi pod (had no choice, new front mount crossover pipe fouled) and have made a box for it but it is still noisy as hell at half throttle accelleration between 3000-4500rpm. Above that it goes fairly quiet again. Whats up with that? Is there any way to make it quieter?

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok, despite the horrid review by riggaP, YBSLO4, can I still get one of those aluminum cai things your making.

Why arent I reverting back to panel you may ask? well, I bought the a trust pod filter recently, and I stand by it.......

YBSLO4, how should I go abouts in getting hold of one. Thanks!

Here is a pic of the new box I made for my Apexi pod. After lining inside with a layer of 10mm insulation foam with silver heatsheilding on one side I am more than happy with the result. Much quieter than without and a definite improvement in response. Took me a couple of arvos to knock it up out of aluminium plate, total cost under $30.

  • 2 weeks later...

Zman: Both my pod and panel are K&N and are made from the same material so I guess it comes down to surface area. The panel is only marginally smaller than the pod and I doubt anyone would be able to feel the difference.

The panel feels like it flows HEAPS more air than the pod without a CAI.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...