Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just wonder if anyone has had any experience/knowledge on welders out there at the moment.

Just after a home handy man style. In the past have only used arc welders but know there are mig and tig versions around. Now I dont want to deal with gas bottles so gasless migs have caught my interest. What are the pros and cons when I can get a arc welder for $100 and a gasless mig will be $400 worth. Can it still do aluminium.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/
Share on other sites

You don't want much. You'll need to pay at least $700 retail for a decent handy gas/gasless. Gasless welds are crap so get the gas bottle. It will do ally and stainless but you need pure Argon for them and Argoshield blend for mild and other steels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2418584
Share on other sites

i have a gasless and gas based welder .. was bout $550 and it can use either small 400mm high gas canisters (single use) and normal gas bottles and gasless wire.

atm im just using gasless wire which is good for using the unit as a portable... can have bottles for nice proper welding in the shed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2418644
Share on other sites

Its been a while since I welded ali but I think you need pure argon, and no, a gasless wont weld ali. In the industry no one use arc welders any more because they are a pain in the ass, we either use mig, tig or inverters. Inverters are the best in my opinion as you can use rods or set them up for tig, but to weld ali with tig you need a square wave unit which are very expensive (4k). If you set up a steel mig welder to weld ali you must remember that ali wire is very soft and bends easily thus getting caught up in the wheels that push the wire, a dedicated ali mig uses the push/pull system with driven wheels in the hand piece that pull wire up to it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2423623
Share on other sites

I think you'll find you will need to pay for a license for the gas on a mig. So unless your doing a fair bit of welding it probably won't be worth it. Might be best to get the arc welder. Personally I think a nice weld on an arc comes out better looking than a mig anyway :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2423992
Share on other sites

I m not sure on this either but nowadays I think you pay for the gas and hire of the bottle, so if you have it for a year without using it you still pay for just having it.

thats spot on ...

with the welder i use... you get small canisters fo gas that are single use... good for the not so often welding.. and can run the gasless wire as well, and be able to hook up a proper small sized bottle for big jobs ..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2426217
Share on other sites

Gasless is Mog not mig

Gassless is only for very light welding stuff ie 1 or 2mm steel or wire. My uncle had one, and it was useless to use...u need still or no wind at all.

Mig for home would be any of these : http://www.welding.com.au/products-listing...?iCategoryID=63 (as they are single phase) they require a 15 kg roll of wire too (it can go rusty which is useless) if u dont use it all

Gas bottles are rented per year ^ and u have to buy gas. They can do aluminium as said which requires ally wire.

then theres tips, nozzles, etc which add to costs .

Tig can do anyhting u want, but costs $$$$

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2426333
Share on other sites

Nice enough welders but the smallest needs 15 Amp plug so it's not really portable or a direct plug in until you get a 15A outlet installed.

Once more, the Ally and stainless needs pure argon but mild steel uses Argoshield blend.

Go to BOC and talk to a salesman, they'll put you straight.

Oh and for a TIG to do ally would be over 4K.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130667-which-welder/#findComment-2426372
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day  
    • While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
    • Are you 100% sure this isn't tune related?
    • 140-150 across the board. At this point hoping the grounding harness fixes it. My grounds are all tied to the chassis and none to the battery. For SR and KA that’s never been a problem for me but had a few other guys here and Reddit who told me RB really like a very solid ground setup tied to the battery so going to try that next, I’m stumped if that doesn’t do it. Never had a car have spark and fuel and not fire off before. Only thing I can think is the spark is intermittent/weak because of grounds nothing else really makes sense at this point 
    • I am having close to the same issue. Can you help me with what wire you grounded to get your pump to trigger?
×
×
  • Create New...