Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone ever had any problems after blocking off the std BOV and plumbing in a atmo bov on a r33 skyline? There's been a small but noticable loss of power from when boost comes on through to the rev limiter and sometimes I cant even get to the rev limiter. Not all the time but occasionaly the car will get to somewhere between 6000-7000rpm and the engine wont rev anymore and the engine will start to retard and I have to shift to the next gear before it'll go anywhere. To start with the original BOV was left connected as well as the new apexi twin chamber bov and this was causing problems with the AFM, since then I've blocked off the std one and the pipe that returns the air back to the intake, but its still down on power... any ideas? or anyone else have a simular problem? I'm sure the BOV is stuffing up the AFM, as pretty much everything has been checked, the only other thing maybe the fuel pump, but there arnt any other problems (not stalling, or missing). Any help appreciated.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1307-bov-problems/
Share on other sites

ive read of a prob like this b4 on here or on sdu

how did u block the standard one off?

someone did have the standard one and a venting one and they used a metal plate in the gasket that connects it. they drilled some holes in it, they sed it helped alot by doing this

if u do a search on here and sdu u might be able to find it, ill try a search myself to c if i can help u

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1307-bov-problems/#findComment-27507
Share on other sites

put a coke-bottle lid down the pipe from the std BOV

this may sound dodgey but is the only way i managed to successfully block off my BOV, as when it wasnt d/c my atmo BOV was very loud and the car stalled every time you stopped

so to block off use a coke bottle lid and make sure you do up all the connections from the std BOV tight

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1307-bov-problems/#findComment-27514
Share on other sites

I've done that. I went to bunnings and bought a reticulation part that fitted into the large pipe off the std bov (I did mention in my original post that I had done this already) and use the hose clamp to secure it in place so that I wasnt losing any air and that the airflow would be right... either way I think atmo BOV's on AFM cars are a waste of time, sure the noise is nice, but at the end of the day if it means a power loss I'd rather have the std bov. When I replace my intercooler and I re-do the piping I'm going to leave the apexi off and reconnect the std bov and see what happens, in that case I'll have an apexi bov for sale... any takers? :D btw: that cruise you organised adam was pretty average to say the least, sorry but I'm being honest.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1307-bov-problems/#findComment-27790
Share on other sites

Well, I'm getting a greddy profec b fitted this week and I'm going to play with the boost a little (probably leave the low setting at 7psi and set the high to 10psi) and see what happens. If problems persist when I fit a front mount intercooler and change the piping I'll leave the apexi off, hopefuly more boost will fix the problem :D more boost more boost! As for the cruise, I'm not a huge fan of cruises, especially all the stories I hear about the rollaboy cruises, I dont like being around a heap of moderately to highly modified cars on the road drawing attention to themselves as I dont want a yellow sticker or some tool to do something stupid and put me in a situation where my car is damaged. I only came along cos Gus was pestering me as I missed one earlier this year, but I dont think I'll be attending anymore. I had more fun taking the car down the drags... I'll be doing that again as soon as I drop the new intercooler in, turbo to cat pipe, high flow cat and I wind the boost up to 14psi (if possible) :) I'm hoping for mid 13's, the car ran a 14.82 with only a cat back system and the problems I mentioned in the first post, couldnt get the launch right either.

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1307-bov-problems/#findComment-28051
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...