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i thought this would be a good place to throw this out there.

Looking into buying a built up r34 box to use in my r34 gtt

the seller lists that it has:

"60MM FRONT BAND

4 & 5 PINION PLANETARY GEAR SETS

STAGE 2 SHIFT KIT"

and states that it was built to handle 400kw

what does this mean essentially? does it sound correct? im not too savvy on the internals of automatic boxes.

I am in now way chasing 400kw maybe up to 300rwkw once done (im not sure if he meant rwkw or just engine kw either?)

on a side note... has anyone discovered a way to speed up tiptronic changes in the 34?

ive noticed going up gears quickly can fail hard. ie: 1 -> 2 -> 3 but the 3 change takes aaaaggesss

going down gears doesnt seem to be a problem though.

Yah pretty much. Depends what you want out of it. If it is full manual, you can just use an intercept box. What box you want to put into it?? your in the states yah?? might find it hard to get a full kit for rb25, though not sure. Although a trans from a 300zx or q45 box(re403) and just get a bell housing for an rb and your set. You may have to get a tailshaft made/modified.

Nice, yah i think Dizzy in perth has done the same thing.

Good box.

I just got my re403a and rb bellhousing. So can't wait to drop it in.

How do you like the reverse pattern?? would feel kinda weird shifting backwards..

Nah its all good most race type boxs are reverse pattern.

Nah its all good most race type boxs are reverse pattern.

Yah kewl.

I have heard of boxes reversed, mainly C4's and the BMS valve bodies, but not that many. Yah no probs. I think i'll keep my standard forward pattern. I like the fact of going through a higher gear to get to neutral, not go down gears.

The bands activate 1st, planetary sets are the actual gears. You also have clutch packs to activate gears.

60mm bands doesn't really mean much. the type of material does though. the planetary sets are prob just standard which i think are just 4 pinion, though not 100%. 400kw is just to let you know how much power it can handle, though, you should always go stronger than what you need, gives you lee way if you start putting more power through.

I don't necessarily think this box will handle that 400kw with just those mods. who knows wether its engine kw or wheels. only manufacturer will.

generally the shift kit will help shift changes, as they mdify oil pressure and the like.

enjoy

Robb

Thanks for that mate >_<

yeah the seller doesnt list much detail about the box. but with the info you've provided there ive asked him a few more questions.

current box already has a shift kit in it. was just looking into this as a future proofing type adventure.

Yah kewl.

I have heard of boxes reversed, mainly C4's and the BMS valve bodies, but not that many. Yah no probs. I think i'll keep my standard forward pattern. I like the fact of going through a higher gear to get to neutral, not go down gears.

The bands activate 1st, planetary sets are the actual gears. You also have clutch packs to activate gears.

60mm bands doesn't really mean much. the type of material does though. the planetary sets are prob just standard which i think are just 4 pinion, though not 100%. 400kw is just to let you know how much power it can handle, though, you should always go stronger than what you need, gives you lee way if you start putting more power through.

I don't necessarily think this box will handle that 400kw with just those mods. who knows wether its engine kw or wheels. only manufacturer will.

generally the shift kit will help shift changes, as they mdify oil pressure and the like.

enjoy

Robb

  • 3 weeks later...

Link G4 Plugin. Nothing talks to the auto ecu, so anything that plugs in that your tuner is happy with i guess.

Just be sure to add an oil cooler (extra one if car has one already factory as mine did) ..... and get the shift kit too.

Gary

Hey guys, just letting everyone know, i finished installing the RE403a auto into my R31 S3 skyline.

The conversion was a little more than i thought was going to happen, but that was mainly due to wiring problems from changing over with manual auto setups back to electronic auto's, but besides that, i'll pass on all the info i can.

Ok first off, the auto was from a y31 cima that had a VG30det.

Now apparently these boxes not only have big internals, but the output shaft is bigger again, which is stronger. Not sure if its bigger or better than say a 300zx, but hey.

I needed a bell housing off a RB as the VG is different, and also a flex plate from the same.

Now i used a R31 S3 bell housing and flex plate as i was able to pick it up for a bottle of wiskey, you can use one from a rb25 or something, but they are about 500-1000 from just about anywhere i looked but are exactly the same.

Now the tailshaft yokes are dikfferent. I was able to use a yoke from a 300zx or even a VLT manual gearbox. I just used a second hand one and whilst i was at it got the centre bearing replaced. I was lucky, i didn't need to get the standard tailshaft cut. All up cost me $260. A full built single piece with larger uni's and tougher uni housings will cost around $6-700. It seems the output housing is slightly shorter to allow for the longer main housing, so it is pretty much the same length, it is slightly different, but within 10mm or so i think.

The standard crossmember can be used, but i had to make some tabs up to move the crossmember back 18mm, not a prob with some 5mm plate and a drill and grinder. hehe

The stock shifter is fine, no adjustment needed, same same.

I had to use the r31 dipstick tube and stick, as the vg one doesn't line up to the rb bellhousing

Standard converter lines up fine, though you can't use the a RE401 converter as the pump drives are different, however you probably could if you change the pump drive element or the whole pump, pretty easy.

The wiring from each auto is same same, so just unplug one, install new auto, plug in and away you go.

Just remember to swap the speedo sender drive over. The 300zx one is a 2 wire and differnt plug, however the base is the same(part that has the gear attached) just the sender.

So there you have it, to upgrade from the stock RE401 (from S3 r31, rb25 auto) to a beefier but plug in box, which with the right internals can handle up to 1500hp and still be a 4spd.

This is my pick.

Any other questions on the conversion, PM me

Rob

  • 4 months later...

I was just reading in my performance imports magazine ( Nice mag if you guys havent seen it ) And there's a R34Gtt in there with a nice triptronic box in it. Im interested in this strengthened triptronic gearbox idea to suit a R33, Has anyone heard of this being done instead of fully manualising my gearbox?

Any ideas? anyone

Hey, better than the triptronic, i think i have mentioned it, but seriously get the 300zx box built. Same as q45 v8, they are unreal and don't need much to be able to take heaps of power. The auto man i take my boxes to, wollongong auto's, said to leave the box standard, with just a shift kit in it which is good for about 500hp maybe more(can't remember exactly), then later go get it built with a few choice bits and you've got a f*ken strong 4 spd box which will take more power than just about any other box around. and it all fits and wires perfectly in to standard harness!!!!

I was just reading in my performance imports magazine ( Nice mag if you guys havent seen it ) And there's a R34Gtt in there with a nice triptronic box in it. Im interested in this strengthened triptronic gearbox idea to suit a R33, Has anyone heard of this being done instead of fully manualising my gearbox?

I own that R34 in the magazine... and yes the box is good for 500rwhp :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Update on my Auto GTR 8.93 @ 159MPH

Figured I would do a quick update...

Finally bothered to take my car down the strip. I had planned to run my full slicks, however I ran out of time to change the springs in the rear (to stock items) so I didnt bother. Figured I would go down and have some fun.

Car at the moment is currently making 351rwhp @ 16psi, it is a very mild tune with little timing/bulk fuel. It has previously made 390rwhp @ 18psi. It is an RB30/25DET with GT3582R, 0.82r. I run a KEAS RE401A, fully built, manualised with 4500rpm stall.

I wasnt expecting much last night. de-tuned on street tyres, I figured with wheel spin I would run some mid 12s/13s.

First run @ 10psi (low boost setting), went 12.8 @ 115mph. Was pretty happy, had absolutely no traction in 1st and 2nd gear till 1/4 track.

Second run, 12.1 @ 114mph running 16psi. Was very, very happy. Again, no traction in 1st/2nd, 2.1 60 foot time as a result. Car felt good.

Third run (and final), 11.82 @ 116mph. At this point I am screaming cause I am over the moon. 1.9 60 foot with bulk wheel spin in first gear, grip in 2nd. Was promptly asked to reduce boost or not run again.

I am a happy man. Car will be back on dyno in a few weeks to run some more boost/push it. Will take it down with some slicks and front runners, and I will strip the stereo (200kg in boot) and see what I can do. a low eleven would be nice!

Cheers,

Matt.

hey all, Thought this would be a good place to seek advice. Im looking to go for the next step in performance in my 34gtt, so far only mods are: Hks fmic, Hks silent hi power exhaust and hks pod. Just looking to increase speed a bit more atm. I want to keep the car as a daily, id love to take it to get 1/4mile times but not until i feel its quicker.

Any ideas on best options to do next (in order would be great help). My car has 80k on clock and Im going to change my timing belt etc on next service

Cheers!

You do realise this is the "automatic performance thread"?? what exactly are you looking at?? do you want info on your auto?? otherwise post a thread or read the countless threads out there on what to do. Mate my reccommendation would be to drop a 30 bottom end in and wack a 3540 turbo on. Perfect daily.... Trust me. Don't f**k around with minor mods unless you want a basic car. Just my opinion.

Don't need to do timing belt till 100K, not going to get you any more performance, well i doubt much anyway.

Its not as easy as spark plugs.

What do you want to know about your auto though??

You do realise this is the "automatic performance thread"?? what exactly are you looking at?? do you want info on your auto?? otherwise post a thread or read the countless threads out there on what to do. Mate my reccommendation would be to drop a 30 bottom end in and wack a 3540 turbo on. Perfect daily.... Trust me. Don't f**k around with minor mods unless you want a basic car. Just my opinion.

Don't need to do timing belt till 100K, not going to get you any more performance, well i doubt much anyway.

Its not as easy as spark plugs.

What do you want to know about your auto though??

im not a new at this mate i did searches, didnt find much on upgrading steps for autos. Just beacuse I drive it daily that doesnt mean i dont want it to be powerful. im just not going to thrash it like i would on a circuit. This being an auto performance thread i was hoping for advice on performance for my auto. And even tho timing belts can alter engine performance its not why i spoke of it at all, reason being was while im changing that i was wondering if anyone had ideas that could be done at the same time to save time/money performance wise. I'm changing the belt due to noise, these imports are known for having false odo reading so im doing it early to be safe.

Im not looking to learning about autos exactly, never modded an auto so i want assistance on mods for power gains for an auto. I dont want change my turbo for a garrett anything as yet, surely people have decent power without hurting the ceramic too much. If i knew what to do i wouldn't be asking. Anyway sorry to intrude mate ill seek advice elsewhere.

Cheers!

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