Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh hi since ive turbo'd my engine rb25de i put a drift oil breather on as shown in the picture!

the as u can see the blue'ish filter there use to be a hose leading the the stock airfilter piping...

since i turbo'd my engine i had nothing to put there other then this filter.

when i give my car a bit it seems pressure is building up and forcing oil out of the filter and yeh needs to be fixed asap. can anyone tell me what i can do to fix this problem?

Thanks heaps people!

post-28365-1156405139.jpg

Edited by Stealthynsa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131580-oil-problem-since-turbod/
Share on other sites

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

oil coming out of that line will happen no matter what you do.

only thing you can do to stop it from going around your engine bay is to stick fit an oil catch can.

do it ASAP. the oil around your exhaust manifold coult start a fire!

its not coming from the turbo oil line... its coming from the top of the engine where the filter is...

and oil catch can? what would this do to help me, i tried pluging it up once but then the pressure built up

and spat out of my dip stick...

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

i didnt say anything about a turbo line.

the place where you fit the breather is meant for a pipe heading back into the intake.

air comes out of there and sometimes oil will come through your rings. this is called blow by.

do a search on catch can and you'll find something.

so if i put this catch can on there wont it also over flow?

or does it drain back into the engine? what happens if this builds up with pressure?

btw thanks for ur help dude

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

yeah it will fill up eventually, but at least it wont spill onto your motor.

im more worried about your dip stick blowing out. have you gotten a compression test done? this is usually a sign of worn or even damaged pistons/rings. get it checked out asap.

the catch can doesnt fill up with pressure, the air vents back out to either your intake or atmo.

how much is a compression test/ where would i go... and what do they do to test it, am i able to test it myself?

whats a atmo?

there is a fair bit of oil that comes out... it never happened untill turbo'd it.

and also when i give it a bit of a rev burnt smoke comes out of the filter would that be normal im guessing its burnt oil?

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

The oil wont overflow, the blow by will then be caught inside the catchcan instead of spraying all over the place inside your engine bay, As security said its actually meant for a pipe to go back into the intake

so by u saying a pipe goin back to my intake... u mean the 2.5" piping to the throttle body?

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

you could do it yourself, but it'll be hard to crank your motor while reading compression, just drop it off at a mechanic and ask for a compression test and a leak-down test. it shouldnt cost too much, probably the same amount as buying a compression tester.

atmo = atmosphere.

where is the atmo?

thats your inlet pipe.

intake is your air filter pipe. so it needs to lead to your turbo.

a catch can will seperate the oil from the air before it hits your engine though. thats its purpose.

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

ok now u have lost me sorry about this...

um i put 1 of the tubes of the catch can onto the part where its leaking ontop of the engine.

and ur saying i put the other tubing into the atmo or the intake? if i put it into the intake wont it go back throung somewhere its not suppose to?

read:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...%20can&st=0

this is a goodie:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...20can&st=20

on the side of ur engine u have a oil return line from a step down at the fron of the rocket cover down the the bottom of i the engine... i T peice my turbo's oil return line in there... would this be why ther oil is coming up and spurting out? im saying would the oil+pressure from the turbo's oil return go back up through the oil return from the head and therefore come out my airfilter?

if you've T'd it into a pipe you KNOW to be an oil return pipe it shouldnt be a problem.

i know its an oil return from the head but what im saying since there is pressure coming from the turbo oil return would it head back up the oil return from the head causing the head to overflow and rid the oil out of my air filter?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...