Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, gotta do a clutch on my GTR soon and i need to know 1, how to do it 2, any nastys to look out for and 3, how to do it!! I got no idea how to get it out, havent even looked at it yet but i imagine its gunna be a pain in the backside, so any info would be helpful

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131764-removal-of-33-gtr-clutch/
Share on other sites

you NEED a trans stand with the threaded tilt things on it. you need to remove the whole gearbox mount.

position the box on the stand with the gaerbox mount point at the front half of the stand. thats aprox the center of gravity. you need to tilt it over about 30 degrees to clear the startermotor hump on the bell housing from the tunnel

also to did engage the clutch fork use a long screwdriver with a small bend in it to wedge indetween the release bearing and diaphapm spring bearing retainer (holding the spring clip thing hard against the clutch cover) and give the fork a jerk and the bearing will pop out.

dont try to pull the pin on the linkage out. its just makes it more akward.

apart from that its pretty easy.

a good quality pair or 12mm open end spanners is a must for the front prop shaft. as they seem to get very tight.

Have fun getting that top started motor bolt out :(

When i did the clutch on the R the 2nd time, i did it whilst the car was on axle stands, used 1 car jack to jack up the engine so it tilted back, and the 2nd to lower the box out. With the top starter motor bolt, you will need all of the extensions you can get (so the ratchet head is almost at the end of the box) and an adjustable socket on the end of the extensions.

Basically just get in there at it and be prepared to swear and curse and probably break things. Well thats just from my experience :(

Hey guys, gotta do a clutch on my GTR soon and i need to know 1, how to do it 2, any nastys to look out for and 3, how to do it!! I got no idea how to get it out, havent even looked at it yet but i imagine its gunna be a pain in the backside, so any info would be helpful

Its a pain in the ass on the floor but very easy with a hoist.

Its a very heavy box about 95kg so if you do it on the floor you will have to use a jack . If you done boxes before you will see what you have to undo when you are under there . Front pipes have to come off and the front driveshaft .

The easiest way to undo the top box bolts is a long extention ( uni will come handy as well) then undo the subframe bolts about 10mm and it will make esay to get them. When you unplug the attessa pipe block it with something so it doesn't drain the tank no need to block the g/box end but if you do it wont make a mess. Don't forget to take the shifter out before you lower the box. The top starter bolt can be hard to get if you have a C spanner it will make life easier but you may have to hang of it. If you have a late 32 , 33 or 34 she will have a pull clutch so you will have to realease the fork .

Don't forget to bleed the attessa when you put it all back .

If using a hoist no need to take tailshaft completely off or front prop shaft out...we only did this the 1st time when we didn't know what we were doing. 14mm palm spanner is also handy for top starter motor bolt...and yes even we forget the shifter every now and then.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...