Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RBFIRE I wasn't really sure what you meant originally....but like dangerous_daveo said the quickest way to brake is when the tyres are just about to lock up, not after they just have.

You need to practice the feeling of how much braking the car can take on each surface so you know how hard you can brake, and if the tyres lock you need to back off the braking a little until they regain grip.

And if you want more info try googling "cadence braking".

Or if you don't want to learn the technique buy a car with ABS....but learning a new driving skill is a better idea

Seems to me you're not feeling the pedal correctly - maybe invest in a set of front braided brake lines to take the spongyness out of the pedal feel, definately get your shock absorbers (all 4) checked and possible replaced, check all the brake pads and discs for abnormal wear, and possibly invest in new suspn mount bushes etc, oh............and listen to the advice below, : :yes:

ok so try a new braking technique. just slamming the brakes on will lock up your wheels. if you can train yourself to ease the brakes on a bit slow, brush the brakes a lil bit so the nose of your car dips down, THEN push the brake in. That way you are giving the car time to shift weight to the front before you apply full pressure.

Im talking like a split second brush before you bury the pedal. Shifting the weight to the front will allow you to put more pressure on the brakes, as your tyres will be biting down into the tarmac more. If you just slam the brakes on while cruising or jump straight from the accellerator to the brake, there isnt enough weight on the front to stop the tyres from breaking traction, cos its all either centered, or at the rear. Move the vehicles weight onto the front, then bury that pedal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...